Roaches 11/5/25

Attendees (In no particular order): Christine Beeston (belay/spectating/enthusiasm giving services), Andy Stratford, Sean Clancy, Kevin Grajewski (Prospective), Kasia Machalinski, Dan Irons (prospective), Will Fitzmorice (prospective), Dave Wylie, Caroline Gay, Rory + Owen + Rhubarb Marsden, Harry Potts, Nils Elgar, Neil Boyton, Mark Hughes (guest/social/beta buddy), Me.

Roaches Upper Tier – Maud’s Garden area. Probably to most concentrated selection of odd grades in the country!

Initially thankful for dry weather and not needing to make a plan B, the sun became a little merciless for the poor folk who turned up wanting to climb on gritstone. As such, a more relaxed approach to difficulty soon became the standard and the crag became the site of steady progress on easy grades, with some even finding a little rest on the gear to be quite nice.

Apologies in advance of any fake news, but it went something like this:

The most popular climb appeared to be Maud’s Garden, which saw continued traffic throughout the day. Hardest climb double award went to Dan for West’s Wallaby VS4c and VS4c finish to Damascus crack, which I found out for myself how hard it was - Given the conditions of course!

Christine on belay duty volunteered to hold the ropes for Andy to lead Rooster (HVD). Kevin was opportunely walking by as we were coming back around after climbing Maud’s garden which I’d led, as Andy was looking for a second so he tied in and took the duty. Kevin then paired off with Andy and led Damascus crack (HS4b) and Right Route (VDiff). Andy also led Broken Slab (HS4b) and Technical Slab (HS4a) which Kasia joined to second.

Sean meanwhile, led Maud’s Garden (HVD3c), Black and Tans (S4a) (although set out to lead Black Velvet but bailed onto B&T after hanging on gear proved insufficient to enable progress) and Damascus Crack (HS4b), with Kasia on second.

Caroline kindly pre-placed half of the gear on inverted staircase (VDiff) (which I think was via an alternative start?) for Dave to lead. Dave went on to lead Maud’s Garden (HVD3c), Yong (HVD), Prow Corner (VDiff) and Captain Lethargy (Vdiff), as the heat was getting to them by then, with Caroline duly seconding.

Dan led Damascus Crack (VS4c finish), West’s Wallaby (VS4c) and Fern crack (S4b) with Will seconding, while Will led Runner Route (HS4b) and Capitol Climb (HS4b) for Dan to second.

Nils led Rooster (HVD), Heather Slab (S3c), Maud’s Garden (HVD3c), Right Route (VD) and Easy Gulley Wall (HVD4a), all kindly seconded by Neil.

Harry led Beckermet Slab (HVD4a) and Fern Crack (S4b) for me to second, while I led Heather slab (S3c) and Damascus crack (HS4b) going for and repeatedly failing the VS4c finish (more hanging on gear!) making an alternative finish along the right of the tower (HS4b?) for Harry to second and make light work of – finding the apparent ‘handhold’!?

Owen mainly bouldered – putting up some good problems in the new category of V- grades, the most notable being West Wallaby’s Super Direct Start at V-1 which by the look of it, got a star. Rory was kept busy juggling spotting our youngest active member and watering his Rhubarb.

Mark, feeling in need to cool off, found the most expensive ice cream van in the peaks, which did little to help. The Copperberg which materialised some-time later, may have been more effective and enabled him to be refreshed enough to helpfully guide Harry, as he disappeared around the corner and out of sight on the winding Fern Crack.

Afterwards, a thorough debrief was had at Ye Old Rock where an attempt was made to rehydrate. All in all, a very unlikely hard grit kind of day, yet very enjoyable none the less. Thanks all who joined the fun!

Meet up to leave from the layby (https://www.google.com/maps/place/53%C2%B009'23.4%22N+1%C2%B059'44.2%22W/@53.1565974,-1.996098,112m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d53.1565!4d-1.9956?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMzMS4wIKXMDSoJLDEwMjExNjQwSAFQAw%3D%3D) at 09.30 a.m. Arrive closer to 9am if you want to be guaranteed a spot. There are a few more laybys lower down and higher up and there’s sometimes overspill parking for a small charge at the Tea Rooms lower down, but watch out for the no parking notices – the wardens are keen!

We’ll start off by heading up to Maud’s Garden area and will probably move rightwards towards Central Massive and Black and Tans

 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roaches_upper_tier-797/

We’ll conclude the day with a drink (hopefully soaking up the last of the sun) at The Reform Inn to compare notes and hatch plans for more adventures.

Keep your eye on the WhatsApp groups for up-to-date chatter, info, lift shares and general banter….. If the weather is wet, don’t despair – as an alternative, we’ll probably go for a walk/scramble along the edge to Lud’s Church….keep your eye on the WhatsApp groups for details.

If you need a link to join the WhatsApp groups drop Mich or Lewis a line by any means you fancy!

If you have recently signed up as a prospective member, or wish to do so, please email enquiries@karabiner.org to let us know you'd like to come. Bring your harness, helmet, rock shoes etc. As we don't do instruction or teaching and aren't insured to do this, we'd expect anyone coming to know how to at least belay safely and competently. We’ll make sure all new folk get to climb with members at various times during the day. 

Finally, If you think you are coming, please click the ''intend to attend'' button on this page.

See you all there!

Lewis and Mich