Joint KMC-AC Meet - Kyajo Ri 6186m, Khumbu. Nepal, Autumn 2025.

Dates: UK departure 1st Nov 2025. UK Arrive back Nov 27th / 28th 2025

Meet Organiser: Andy Stratford (KMC / AC member) 

Introduction

This is a joint Greater Ranges Open Meet linking the Karabiner Mountaineering Club with the Alpine Club. It is a single objective expedition to climb Kyajo Ri 6186m. 

It is anticipated that applicants will tend to apply as established climbing teams, having already formed a climbing relationship in the UK, Europe or further afield. We are keen to encourage collaboration and new partnerships and there is time to develop these during 2025 therefore individual applications are also welcome. Once at base camp we would  expect all team members to be flexible so that as a team we could cope with altitude or other illness.

The meet will be open to full members of both the Karabiner MC and the Alpine club, for a total of minimum six, maximum ten places. This is subject to a team-based selection process intended to reflect a good balance, of gender, age range and depth of experience.   

The Objective

Kyajo Ri 6,186m is the highest point on the range of mountains sandwiched between the Thame and Gokyo valleys and is accessed from a valley just north of Namche Bazaar (3400m), however an excellent way to acclimatise fully for maximum chance to succeed on this 6000m peak is to fly in to Lukla (2800m) then follow an 11 day acclimatisation circuit via Namche Bazarre (3450m), Gokyo (4790m), Gokyo Ri (5360m),  Renjo La pass (5360m) before dropping back towards Thame (3800m) then up the quiet Khumuche Himal valley to Base Camp at 4490m. The itinerary then allows a generous 7 full days to climb and descend Kyajo Ri between the various camps. Glacier camp (ABC) is established at 5370m then a Camp 1 at 5700m which is accessed through a rock band. Summit day is on an aesthetic narrowing exposed snow ridge/ice pitches/mixed ground to 6186m on ground of approx. AD+ difficulty – this upper section can feel harder if windy, cold and/or icy. The mountain has been somewhat under the radar and whilst commercial expeditions do climb it, it has a tiny fraction of ascents of the other popular Khumbu peaks as it’s a little harder. The valley has some other interesting mountains 5800 to 6100 metres, many of which have been climbed only a few times and there are still teams climbing new routes on these peaks, including some of the harder face routes on Kyajo Ri. Check out Phuletate 5597m, Machhermo 5559m, Teningbo 5839m, and others.   

Previous Experience, Ability and Training

Applicants should expect to be technically and psychologically capable of climbing to the summit in good style and would most likely have recent western Alpine experience of leading and decision making at around AD. Solid Scottish winter mountaineering skills with confidence leading and seconding at least grade II/III would be expected. Overseas travel experience is essential. Some experience of having climbed peaks over 5000m would be useful, although with the careful acclimatisation profile this is not a hard requirement. Team members must be mountain fit. Technical training is a personal matter – all team members should be up to speed with current glacial travel and crevasse rescue best practices. 

Application  Process

Applications will be considered by the meet organiser who will seek advice if required. It is not ‘’first come first served’’, the whole team make up will be part of the decision- making process

Applications are open. The timescale is as follows:

• Closing date for applications midnight Monday 26th  January.

• References / dialogue with prospective expedition members completed by 7th February

• Invitations to successful applicants issued W/C 8th February 2025.

• Confirmation of participation of those selected by 15th February 2025

• Payment of £xxxx deposit to meet organiser by 15th March 2025

Costs

Fee: £2300 to £2600. The final amount will depend on the size of team. 

Flights, Insurance, Personal expenses, appropriate kit etc are additional.

Cost could therefore range from £3900 ish to £4600 ish all in. This works out at £140 to £164 a day all in - inclusive of fees, flights, insurance and personal.

Further information / online meeting

Message for a full trip dossier.

I’m based in Manchester, happy to have an online meeting to answer further questions or have a phone call. I have a busy weekday work schedule so please email or WhatsApp me first so I can fit it in the diary.