Wed 24th Jul, 2019

Millstone Edge

Emily Pitts

Daniel O'Brien

Jared Kitchen

Members: Cathy Gordon, Gowry Sisupalan, Jared Kitchen, Adam McCudden,  Clay Conlon, Andy Pierce, Caro Churchill, Fergal McCullough

Prospectives: John Smallwood, Joe Markus, Ged, Lewis Pierce, Stephan Lopacki, Roxy Wright


Wow! Who would have thought that the stiffest crag on the 2019 midweek meets list would bring out so many! 14 attendees came out to sample the sculpted walls of the Gritstone quarry. The evening was warm and the atmosphere was fun. Even the bugs stayed at bay until the twilight. It was a brilliant meet…

Jared pulled into the Surprise View carpark to find Gowry already waiting. He hurriedly chucked his work clobber in the boot and by the time he had his stretchy climbing pants on, there was a sturdy group of KMC climbers waiting to walk in. Jared, Cathy, Gowry, John and Joe then walked into the Hells Bells area where Cathy and Gowry partnered, and Joe and John partnered, and swapped leads on Midrift (VDiff) and Giants Steps (VDiff) respectfully. Jared ran up to the Embankment to search for others and came across Adam and Ged top roping the Jealous Pensioner (E4 5c). They suggested that the others might like to a go at the sand bag, hurghh, I mean route…Jared returned to Hells Bells in time to meet Clay, and the pair partnered for an accent of Chiming Crack (HS 4a). It was then that some others arrived. Jared remained on top of Chiming Crack to belay Roxy and Fergal up the route. Clay descended and partnered with Caro for a go at Hells Bells (HS 4a). Jared descended shortly after and teamed with Steve and Fergal. They set off to tackle The Great North Road (HVS 5a) and arrived in time to meet Andy and Lewis who had descended from their ascent. Andy and Lewis then headed off for Covent Garden (VS 4b). Roxy had joined Cathy and Gowry for a battle on Adam’s E4 sand bag. Joe and John had sped up Lambeth Chimney (HS 4b), while Clay and Caro climbed The Scoop (Diff). Everyone topped out and descended together, congregating around London wall. With the remaining light Jared, Steve and Caro then tackled the excellent Bond Street (HVS 5a), while Andy and Lewis tackled the classic The Mall (VS 4c).

At the top the light was now fading and the midges were beginning to bite. The ground team had packed up everyone’s kit and walked around to the top of the crag, and the path out. Jared and Caro ran across the top of the crag to meet them, and everyone made swift tracks back to the carpark to dodge the growing swarms. Chucking their packs in their cars, they sped off to the Little John for a pint, and a gear sort on the pub floor.  The bar man didn’t even bat an eyelid; he must be used to it…


Awesome evening everyone, it was great to see you all. Robs Rocks next week. See you all there!

Jared Kitchen

Meet Promo:

Wo!! Is it the best gritstone quarry in the whole UK? Yes it is! Millstone is the obvious gritstone scar that stands ominously above the village of Hatherasge in the eastern Peak. It is known for its cracks, and is thought by many to have some of the best crack climbing in the UK. During the 50's and 60's Millstone was used as an aid climbing venue, but as the hammered pegs enlarged the cracks, the cracks became big enough for fingers, and strong fingers meant that climbs went free. The number of quality routes is simply awesome, and despite popular belief they're not all crack climbs, and they're not all hard either... Details can be found here:


The parking for Millstone is Surprise View carpark. This is a paid carpark and the machine is working ATM. Card only. Officially, the meet will begin at 6 pm but it is common for many to arrive earlier. Please keep an eye on scribble for updates and check the promo before you come out. There are a selection of great pubs here about and I'm hoping for a quick one after. It'll be a great evening, see you all there. 

Jared Kitchen

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Karabiner Mountaineering Club