Fri 13th May - Sun 15th May, 2022

The Roaches: DWMH

Roger Dyke

Andy Stratford

Interim Meet Report

30 members and guests over the weekend

27 on Saturday, brilliant sunny day.

10 on Sunday, dull till coffee time then another lovely sunny day, contrary to all weather forecasts.

Members present:  Andy Stratford, Dave Wylie, Mich Harrison, Mark Pilling, Stevie Graham, Lucie Williams, Roger Dyke, Catherine Machalinski, Marcus Eveleigh, Dan Arrowsmith, Bridget & Roger Mapleson, Greg Nunn, Izy Somers-Smith, Harry Potts, Stu Hurworth, Gowry Sisupalan, Caroline Gay, Tim Howarth, Andy Pierce, Steve Lopacki, Caro Churchill, Trish Cranston, Al Metelko.

 Prospective members and Guests:

James Davies, William Cullum, Oliver Machalinski, James Pike, Ellis Holman, Amie Walker-Shelton.

Well done Mark, for abseiling over the roof and down the front to let us in thro a dorm window after the digital lock decided not to let us back in.

Michelle set a high standard for the Meet by making her first HVS lead on the Friday - Diamond Wednesday - and another - Batchelors Buttress Direct - the following day.  But, she emailed, "The alternative finish I inadvertently made to Left Hand Route (S) on Saturday seemed to be the only topic of interest, until I pointed out the alternative parenting methods to a 'large' group of non-climbing visitors to the crag. The threats of violence being hurled at Stevie and the innocent belayer of a certain Andy P, who was teetering his way up Hawkwing (E1), brough more spice to the route than usual and Andy P almost broke a sweat. "
The warm sunny weather weather encouraged most of us to have a fairly easy day on Saturday, but Caro and Steven, despite late arrival, fitted in Steven's leads of Inverted Staircase, Heather Crack, and Prow Corner Twin Cracks:  then Caro's lead of Prow Cracks.  Then......  "we had a lovely sunset/moonrise evening social outside the hut. And a night time drive back to MCR with our road kill (so that’s good!)".
The Maplesons paced themselves....  "Bridget and I went up to the upper tier which was busy and noisy but no one was on Black and Tans and no one was gearing up below it so took a pitch each. I got first lead. Had forgotten how traditional that first pitch is. Then enjoyed being gently toasted on the belay as Bridget led through. Followed up with Pedestal Route with B taking the first lead. By the time we finished everyon else had cleared off to watch some football match.   We should probably have done a bit more but it was very warm."    

Stu H maintained the Hut's traditions by bivvying on the kitchen roof - surely the snoring wasn't that bad Stu?

The totally inaccurate weather forecast for Sunday discouraged many from driving out for the day - but the reality was a lovelly dry day, and just the right temperature for climbing.
Pedestal Route was attcked again, and alongside it Technical Slab saw a very steady ascent by Andy Pierce.
On Sunday afternoon, everyone decamped to Hen cloud, for a change of scene and a thorough sandbagging. The Arete, (VDiff) was just about led by Michelle with the moral support of Mark P.  Andy S led Modern (VS), with more alternative finishing, followed by Stevie and Stuart.
Trish and Al joined the party just in time for the move to Hen Cloud, and wrote afterwards:  "It was a lovely atmosphere and really nice to catch up the climbing, and chat to old and new folk.  Actually it's the first time we've really thought about climbing again.....    Hope I didn't ruin anybody's digestion anyone with my tiffin!!"
No Trish, we just put on inches round our waists......



Roger Dyke

Meet Promo:

Full Weekend Meet Friday 13th – Sunday 15th May 2022

Come here in my early climbing days, and you could have been startled by a wallaby bounding by. Or invited to leave by a ferocious man with an axe.  Nowadays it’s more peaceful at the Roaches and you can stay in comfort at what was the axeman’s grim abode.   Today we have the benefit of electricity, running water (both from H&C taps and thro the rock roof to the kitchen), superb flush toilets and a modern shower.  Right outside is some of the best grit in the UK.  Several hundred routes from Diff to high E’s; beginner’s routes to classics like Valkyrie and The Sloth and beyond.

There is a grand ridge walk from the Hut, a café only half a mile away, and one mile away “The Rock Inn” has reopened after a rebuild.

The Don Whillans Memorial Hut is skilfully integrated into the lower tier of the main crag.  There are 2 dorms, a total of 12 places.   Lots of info about the Hut at the BMC links:   Don Whillans Memorial Hut gives basic info and this The Don Whillans Hut: a history does what it says on the tin.

This is a Members and Associate Members only outing, but non-members will be welcome to haul up during the days. It’s £25 a head for the weekend, or £18 for one night, best payable by electronic transfer to KMC Account 11838301 Sort 16-22-27 and email to Roger Mapleson ( and to me.   Failing that, cheque or cash to R Dyke.    Payment in advance is the only way to be guaranteed a place.  If you’re on the Intend to Attend list and haven’t paid yet, please do so now…..

If you decide to come for just the day and not stay, that’s fine.   We residents will treat you to coffee & tea, then in the evening you can treat us to supper at the pub.

Roger Dyke

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