Sun 17th Jul, 2022
Perhaps the weather forecast predicting intense heat put some people off, but the select few who turned up certainly had a satistying day, with pleasant climbing conditions at the crag. Facing west the crag was in the shade till mid afternoon, and the stiff breeze made it reasonable climbing conditions. Even when the crag came into the sun later on the breeze was sufficient to keep it tolerable.
There were actually 3 or 4 other teams at the crag throughout the day, who had perhaps decided, correctly, that this was a better option than Stanage. But we didnt have to queue. It is an impressive crag on first appearance, with some interesting pockmarked and pocketed features, and some steep and jutting faces. And a scattering of vegetation as well, but that's what you get on a moorland crag.
The most notable climbs of the day were Rory's lead of Barney Rubble, VS 4b and Daniel's lead of Great Buttress HVS 5b and Route 1 VS 4c.
The walk back to the car park was the most uncomfortable part of the day. I was glad when it was done.
Attendees; Robert Clark, Cathy Gordon, Rory Marsden, Dainius Babrauskas, Daniel Arrowsmith.
Aiming to go to Dovestones Tor on Derwent Edges. At an altitude of over 500m it should hopefully catch any breeze to scare away any midges. Its a great crag with lots of routes from vd up to extreme, in a superb setting. It takes about 40 minutes or so to get there from either of two parking spots; Cut Throat Bridge on A57 or a sharp bend 300m North of Strines Inn.
UPDATE 19th June; The Strines approach is no longer viable, so the approach will be from Cut Throat Bridge, on the A57, either the small parking area by the bridge or the bigger area just 200m up the road. Now, the guide book writers were a bit optimistic in their estimate of time to the crag. I walked it yesterday and took one hour with a light sac. Anyway, its a great crag and if we have good weather its definitely worth the effort. As you follow the path along the edge with views down into the Derwent Valley you pass three bouldering/climbing areas; Hurkling Stones and Wheel Stones to the right of the path, White Tor to the left of the path. About 500m after White Tor you arrive at Dovestones Tor.
I suggest meeting at the Car Park at 9.15am to start walking up 9.30am. Please let me know if you intend to attend.