Wed 22nd Jun, 2022

Burbage Edge

Rory Marsden

Burbage South – Wednesday 22nd June 2022



Daniel Arrowsmith, Rob Clark, Caroline Gay, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Brian Tarnowski, Holly Warder, Gareth Williams


On Peak Rock describes Burbage South’s specialities as “Many appealing, some appalling, problems. One of the Peak’s seed beds for technical virtuosity… Home for the committed (in all three senses) enthusiasts, but never overcrowded.”


And so on a beautiful June evening the committed enthusiasts of KMC gathered to hone their skills. As one of the few who had climbed previously at Burbage South Rob suggested we start at the Drainpipe and from there the following ascents were recorded:


Holly & Caroline

Rombald’s Staircase, Mod, led by Caroline

Chimney Route, VD, led by Holly

Ladder Gully, Diff, led by Caroline


Rob, Rory, Gareth & Brian

Drainpipe, HS 4b, led by Rob


Rob & Brian

Gable Route, VS 4c, led by Rob

The Gutter, HVS 5b, led by Rob


Gareth & Rory

The Staircase, S 4a, led by Rory

No Zag, E1 5b, led by Gareth

Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Rory

Tower Crack, HVS 5a, led by Gareth


Daniel & Fergal

Roof Route, VS 4c, led by Daniel

Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Daniel


Unfortunately meet leader duties were poorly conducted and so the above list is only partially complete. Sorry. While there were no first ascents Caroline and Holly have officially defined the new climbing technique of “ooudgelling”.


After an evening of some excellent climbing we walked back across the moor left only to wonder what are the three senses of committed? Who are you calling crazy??





  1. pledged or bound to a certain course; dedicated
  2. in or denoting a long-term emotional relationship

Thanks to all who attended.

Rory Marsden

Meet Promo:

Burbage South


Although best known for its hard test pieces such as Parthian Shot and Equilibrium, Burbage South is a brilliant and varied venue with something for everyone. Between the big names are plenty of fine routes across the grade range as well as all kinds of boulder problems. The situation of the edge is fantastic with stunning views across the valley and receives the sunshine from early afternoon so should be ideal for an early summer evening meet*.



The best approach is from the Fox House end of the valley. There is parking on the roadside verge 200m uphill from the entrance to the pub car park. Take a style over the wall and follow the path 550m to meet the clifftop path near the quarries.


I will aim to get to the car park around 5pm. Please add your name to the intending to attend list or drop me a Whatsapp if you are coming along.






*Burbage South can be very green after wet weather and if it is too green we will switch the meet to Burbage North.

Rory Marsden

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