Wed 7th Jun, 2023

Burbage North



Daniel Arrowsmith, Jess Bailey, Yvonne King, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Andy Stratford, Lewis Stonehouse





“I’ve got to put you down, I’m about to pass out!” There is never a good time to hear these words from your belayer. However, the remaining three feet to the ground didn’t seem too problematic having already made an unplanned gravity assisted descent from the crux mantle of The Chant, HVS 5a, and Andy had already caught my fall. What was worrying was that Andy did look like he might pass out. Thanks to weight differential and fall dynamics Andy had been launched upwards as he arrested my fall, as expected. The collision between Andy’s leg and the underside corner of the very solid gritstone overlap was both unexpected and extremely painful. Faced with a medical emergency Andy deployed the Northern remedy, a pork pie, which worked wonders.


The Chant was our fourth route of the evening. Andy, Lewis and I had arrived early and worked through Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, Baseless, HVD, and Triangle Crack, HVD 4a to warm up.


Not ready to admit defeat I left my gear on The Chant and while Andy composed himself, I belayed Lewis on Cranberry Crack, VD. Cranberry Crack might be V Diff for those who have refined their jamming technique but is somewhat harder for those who are new to the dark arts as Lewis found out shortly before he too became airborne. Suitably revived by his pork pie Andy set about untangling the crag from our web of ropes by first finishing off Cranberry Crack with Lewis and the newly arrived Yvonne and then a very credible one-legged attempt at The Chant.


Jess and Fergal also arrived about that time and they quickly got stuck into Route 2, S 4a, and Route 3, VD 4a before progressing on to Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a. During the course of the evening Jess seemed to be conducting a group test on crack gloves, we will look forward to the write up of that!


Andy and Yvonne carried on to 20 Foot Crack, S 4b, Mutiny Crack, HS 4b, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a.


Having already ticked the trying hard box for the evening Lewis and I looked to restore some confidence. Lewis enjoyed leads of Steptoe, M, followed by …and Son, Diff, which were both dispatched with little drama. I led Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, and then we finished on Monkey Corner, HVD.


Daniel was the last to join the party and quickly set about soloing everything in sight and was soon spotted on Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, among others. Daniel was finally roped in to a party for an ascent of Wednesday Climb, HVS 5b. Other than Yvonne who made a successful ascent on second, I am not sure exactly who else attempted Wednesday Climb but there seemed to be a great deal of hilarity among those in the vicinity.


With the light fading and the odd midge starting to appear it was time to head for the cars and the drive home. Most of the group managed to get at least five routes in with some hitting double figures which once again proved why Burbage North is a great midweek venue. Thanks all for coming out and to Jo for scheduling and organising!


Until next time,


Rory Marsden

Meet Promo:

Planning on meeting around 5.30 around the bananna fingers area as near to parking but not too busy hopefully :)

Jo Macey

Meet Promo:

Planning on meeting around 5.30 around the bananna fingers area as near to parking but not too busy hopefully :)

Jo Macey

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