Wed 26th Jun, 2024

Millstone

Paul Lonsdale


Is it an “edge”? Is it a quarry? Quarried climbing often conjures up images of an eyesore on the landscape, a depressing hole in the ground with loose rock and sketchy protection. Millstone is probably one of the only few exceptions. Famed for clean steep walls, bold aretes and some of the most inspiring crack lines.

“The section from Green Death to the Keyhole Caves could hardly have been better designed even if a climber had been in charge of the quarrying” - UKC.

Of the 62 routes in the HS - HVS range, some of the 3* classics include: Plexity - HVS 5A, Lyons Corner House - HVS 5A, The Mall - VS 4C. 
There are a substantial number of classic test pieces in the upper grades such as Embankment 3 (E1), London Wall (E5) and The Master’s Edge (E7).

Parking is pay and display (card payments only) at Surprise View. Evening meets are typically scheduled for 6pm but I will aim to be at the car park for 5 in hopes of making the most of the long daylight hours we are blessed with in close proximity to the summer solstice.









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Karabiner Mountaineering Club