Sat 13th Jul, 2019

Dovedale Climbing and Walking Meet

Gareth Williams

Lucie Crouch

Dovedale Climbing and Walking Meet

From the BMC’s Peak Limestone South guide, “Dovedale is a supberb venue, with dramatic rock architecture in a beautiful setting. True, the dale can be a busy tourist trap at times – but the hustle and bustle is easily left behind by the brief uphill trek through the trees to the foot of the climbs.”

Dovedale is home to a small number of sport routes (mainly in the upper grades) but trad is really what it’s all about here. There’s not an awful lot below HS, but in the range HS to HVS there’s plenty to go at, including Silicon (HS 4b **), Ten Craters of Wisdom (VS 5a ***), Simeon Direct (HVS 5a **), John Peel (HVS 5a ***), Snakes Alive (VS 4c, Top 50). Once you’re into E1 and above, the possibilities really open up, with more classics than you could hope to climb in a day. And, in case of poor weather, there’s the aid routes at Dove Holes, including The Bat (A1 ***), guaranteed to provide good entertainment.

The routes are spread across a number of buttresses, spires, fins and arches, giving all sorts of possibilities to move around as the day progresses. Sandals can be useful if you want to wade across the river for a route on the other side, but a drier mode of crossing is never far away.

Dovedale can be accessed from either end, but we will be at the Milldale car park for 10am. From here, Gareth will be heading to the Silicon Wall area of the Tissington Spires, and moving on to different areas through the day as mood dictates – unless it’s raining, in which case it’ll be straight to Dove Holes.

Lucie will be leading a gentle walk of around 6 miles, with an option for those who may wish to extend it to around 11 miles. For those who wish to walk and climb, the walk length allows the option to go for a walk in the morning and then climb in the afternoon – but you’ll need to carry your gear. The walk includes walking up Thorpe Cloud.

There’s something to suit everyone, so come and join us for a day in this beautiful valley.

Guidebooks: BMC Peak Limestone South (in which you can play spot the KMC members in the photos!) and Rockfax Peak Limestone.


Gareth Williams

Copyright © 2019 Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Karabiner Mountaineering Club