Sun 23rd May, 2010


Members present: Bridget Mapleson, Cathy Gordon, Roger Dyke, Kathryn Bagshaw, David Wylie, Mark Ashley, Steve Waters, Ann Waters, Mike Tempest (Guest), Kasia Hoyle, James Hoyle, Ding Koy, Dave Shotton, Gareth Williams and Andy Stratford.


Sunday 23rd May dawned fine, hot, dry and sunny ...perfect... except it really was HOT. Would the KMC turn out to burn on Stanage whilst the tarmac was actually melting?

We needn't have worried. 13 very hardy KMC-ites and a guest turned out to savour the delights of hot gritstone. Luckily the popular end of Stanage was not too popular on the day so there was not too much queuing for routes. There was no messing about and the list of conquests grew rapidly. To give a flavour - Andy Stratford achieved his first lead on Grotto Slab (D), closely followed by a second experience at the sharp end of the rope on Anatomy (VD). (Obviously in style because no waverings were reported).

Gareth Williams climbed Gargoyle Buttress VS 4b **(without falling off this time apparently). Flying Buttress (VD ***) had many ascents with Bridgette Mapleson, Cathy Gordon, Roger Dyke, Ding and Dave Shotton taking to the air. Mark Ashley explored the depths of Black Hawk Hell Crack (S 4a ***) whilst several others claimed Black Hawk Traverse Left (VD **) James Hoyle almost wobbled on a very polished Crack and Corner (S 4b ***) but ascended with honour intact. The "academic routes" had a number of visits with regular ascents of Physiology (VD), Sociology (S) and Anatomy (VD).

Amongst others, Steve Waters and his fellow Mynnedd climbing partner Mike Tempest successfully took on Rusty Crack (HVS 5b) although Steve suggested it unnecessary to mention in the meet report that it was Mike who led it...

Unfortunately the meet leader climbed nothing due to yet another injury... no matter the sun shone.

Dave Wylie was set on accomplishing good environmental deeds as part of his "Keep Stanage Pure" campaign and after much sweat, effort and toil in the heat successfully extracted a piece of booty from the rock to much applause. Not a finders keepers man he chivalrously returned it to its owner.

Finally, Mark Ashley discovered a really unique new belay system... [However, the pictures of this are not fit for public consumption but members can see them in colour by downloading the pdf version of the newsletter, WebMaster.]

Ann Waters

Meet Promo:

We are meeting at the popular end of Stanage from 10.30am on the 23rd May ...whatever the weather...

For those who have never been?

Stanage is the most famous and frequently climbed area in the UK. You won't find long multi pitch runs but Stanage makes up for this in good quality rock. There is everything from moderate scrambles to rarely climbed masterpieces. Stanage has miles of south facing, quick drying rock.

Stanage popular end is the highest and most continuous section of Stanage Edge and it has some of the longest routes on natural grit (up to 23m). There are a huge range of climbs, classics including, Heaven Crack (VD), Hollybush Crack (VD), Robin Hood Right-hand Buttress Direct (HS), Crack and Corner (HVD). Congo Corner (HVS 5b), The Scoop (HVS 5a), Hargreaves Original Route (VS 4c). Good thugging routes include Flying Buttress Direct (HVS 5b), Tippler (E1 5b) and Dangler (E2 5c).

Stanage Edge lies alongside a minor road, which runs from Eccleshall in Sheffield via Ringinglow to Hathersage. There is free parking, but at weekends this quickly fills up so best to get there early.

Note: if it's absolutely pouring down and it looks like it's going to stay that way we will probably assemble at Stanage but then go off for a walk around 11 o clock.

Hopefully see you there.

Ann Waters

Privacy Notice

Copyright © 2013 Karabiner Mountaineering Club

Karabiner Mountaineering Club