Evening Meets at Roaches Upper Tier

The Roaches

Wed 11th Sep, 2024

(No Reports)

The Roaches

Wed 31st May, 2023

The Roaches – Wednesday 31st May 2023



Daniel Arrowsmith, Andy Lewtas, Paul Lonsdale, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Will Richardson, Dylan Smith, Brian Tarnowski


After failing thoroughly to arrange the appropriate weather for the meets at Troy Quarry earlier in the year this was a definite success. Glorious sunshine bathed the upper tier of the Roaches and while the Northerly breeze was a little chilly on the top it was keeping the midgies down wonderfully. Out of the wind at the base of the crag it was almost (almost) too warm!


Early arrivals Will and Dylan paired up and with Will employing the tactic of “point Dylan at the hard stuff” headed off to warm up on Jeffcoats Buttress, HS 5a. They followed this up with ascents of Humdinger, E1 5b and The Sloth, HVS 5a. According to Will the reachy crux of Humdinger is definitely a stiff test as is the fist jam to overcome the lip of the overhang on The Sloth. Having smoothly led all three routes Dylan declared that he had arrived a bit tired from work but intends to go back full of energy to try some hard stuff another day!


Paul arrived in time to assist a party who had become stuck on the pedestal of Pedestal Route, HVD 4a. After the leader had lowered off his original second Paul tied in and duly followed up to finish the route.


Meantime, Brian started out with me belaying him on an excellent lead of Right Route, VD. Fergal arrived and so I suggested he second Brian, thinking I would then follow up. As Fergal set off Andy arrived so we split and I led Central Route, VS 4a with Andy while Fergal completed Right Route with Brian.


Brian and Fergal moved on to their own ascent of Pedestal Route which turned out to be another adventure, particularly as neither had realised that it was one of the Roaches multi-pitch routes. Having found the initial climbing more strenuous than expected Brian, on lead, was faced with the tricky mantle to mount the pedestal. Fortunately, Brian found a good gear placement to protect the move. Unfortunately, a slight underestimate on the amount of extension required led to an impromptu investigation of the effect of rope drag and an almighty struggle to make it onto the ledge. Having battled magnificently to get established on the pedestal it was now apparent that two pitches was the only possible approach and so Brian brought Fergal up to join him. After a consultation with the passing Dylan (heading up The Sloth) on the arrangement of the belay for pitch two, Brian led on. Dismounting the pedestal turned out to be just as tricky as mounting it and after a slip on attempt number one Brian recomposed himself and headed across the slab and into the corner crack from where the climbing eases. Having topped out cold and tired from the exertions on the route this was the last of the night for Brian and Fergal.


Later than planned, Daniel arrived in time to pair up with Paul (after Pedestal Route round 1) and together they got on a couple of Hard Severes and then finished with Saul’s Crack, HVS 5a, which Daniel reported as “really cruisy” though there might be one or two in the club who disagree!


After Central Route, Andy and I took a walk along to Maud’s Garden, HVD 3c, which was led by Andy and turned out to be an excellent route. Maud’s Garden has a bit of everything, starting with a slab, leading into an easy upper crack which ends on a large ledge. From the ledge a squirm up a short chimney takes you to a finish up an airy but juggy arete, fantastic! By now the sun was setting but I still thought we had time for one more climb so we jumped on the classic Black and Tans, S 4a. It turns out we did have time, but only just with Andy struggling to see what gear he was taking out of the gloomy corner belay at the top of pitch one.


Having seen everyone else depart Andy and I packed up in the dark and made the walk back to the cars by torchlight. Another evening of KMC making the most of every minute of daylight!


See you next time,


Rory Marsden

The Roaches

Wed 3rd Jul, 2019

(No Reports)

The Roaches - Upper Tier

Wed 25th Jul, 2018

Roches upper tier until abandoned to lower tier, maybe too much sunshine for some? 

Tim Howarth member lead inverted staircase and Heather slab with altered ending 

Matt Jones guest prow Corner lead(first ever lead) 

Chris Clark guest prow Corner lead (first ever lead) 

John-Paul tyrrell guest 

Adam Mccudden guest (but only one signature from being a member) lead inverted staircase, Heather slab and did chalkstone on top rope, 

James meakin member lead prow Corner twin crack

James Hall member 

Duncan (sorry didn't get surname) 

Ali (sorry didn't get surname) 

Isabel Praues associate member with cakes, will be missed as heading back to Germany. 

A bit of lower tier bouldering was done there was more climbing done and maybe a few more people there but I didn't get names due to poor turn out at the pub, Rock Inn. In fact out of the six of us I was the only full member hence my first meet report. (a bit overdue maybe). 

We enjoyed ourselves so much we decided let's go again (almost) hence the vote below. 

Unanimously voted for hen cloud.

Tim Howarth

The Roaches, Lower Tier

Wed 31st May, 2017

Members : Duncan Zerafa, Helen Boothman.

Guests: John Smallwood, Patrizia Patz (Pati), Jim Duthie, Andy.

With the school holidays upon us this week, the late afternoon drive to The Roaches was pretty swift agreed the attendees. Those that had arrived, were greeted by a hot, cloudy evening and an idle breeze. Helen was climbing coincidentally with us tonight, getting back into climbing after a break.

The relative quiet of the crag meant you could pick and choose the finest routes at will. So with this in mind Pati and Jim had to have a crack at the classic of Valkyrie VS 4c. Jim had climbed it before, and so resolved to lead the first part allowing Pati to lead the airy second part. Pati thought the route was brilliant and exciting, even though she'd suffered from shaky legs before committing to the move from the big flake to the crease and onto the face. She later commented, "It's a lesson on rope management, which I don't have...".

Duncan on Jim's recommendation or sandbag depending on point of view, lead the Joe Brown and Don Whillans route, The Bulger VS 4c. Which was a particularly graunchy, awkward struggle. This was seconded by John and new guest Andy. Duncan followed this by a second of the bold Central Route VS 4a, initially leading it but backing off after rain left a serious chance of hitting the deck. John and new guest Andy teamed up to climb Right Hand Route HS 4c, Andy had got to lead his first route of the night. 

Meanwhile the  chatter below another Roaches classic The Sloth HVS 5a was beginning to come to a conclusion, the rain wouldn't affect the underside of a overhang. Jim had decided he would have a go after backing off in previous attempts. Jim lead the Don Whillans route brilliantly and tenaciously with support from Pati and Duncan beneath. Jim slowly built a web of slings under the roof before committing to a final attempt, which was touch and  go for a moment before finally pulling though the overhanging roof to the easier crack above. The sound of applause rose up from beneath. Pati seconded it excellently too, shouting "Amazing!" upon completion. Duncan also seconded but spent airtime back down to the start after struggling to release Jim's cam in the overhanging roof crux section. Pati then climbed up for a second time and retrieved the stuck cam with coolness, before finishing again with loud encouragement from below.

Under the murky, dark skies, at quite a late point in the evening, a quick decision was made for next week. The light and warm June evenings recommended Lawrencefield, near Hathersage.

Duncan Zerafa

The Roaches

Wed 22nd Jul, 2015

The best grit anywhere (JW)

Despite a showery day the Roaches soon dried out for a golden evening, unfortunately the weather dissuaded many folk so the KMC was represented by myself and Evan. Three pitches of trad and a fair few boulder problems were ticked. Pex Hill was chosen for next week's venue.

James Williams

Back to Current !!!!

If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-

Participation Statement

"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."

More Evening Meets:

Tue 23rd Apr 2024
Wed 24th Apr 2024
Wed 1st May 2024
Wed 8th May 2024
Wed 15th May 2024
Wed 22nd May 2024
Wed 29th May 2024
Wed 5th Jun 2024
Wed 12th Jun 2024
Wed 19th Jun 2024
Wed 26th Jun 2024
Wed 3rd Jul 2024
Wed 10th Jul 2024
Wed 17th Jul 2024
Wed 24th Jul 2024
Wed 31st Jul 2024
Wed 7th Aug 2024
Wed 14th Aug 2024
Wed 21st Aug 2024
Wed 28th Aug 2024
Wed 4th Sep 2024
Wed 11th Sep 2024
Wed 18th Sep 2024
Wed 25th Sep 2024

During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.

Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.

If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.

Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:

Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (17)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (16)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (9)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (3)
Cadshaw Rocks (6)
Castle Naze (22)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (15)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (13)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (17)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (12)
Helsby (14)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (44)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (5)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (7)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (12)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (16)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Lower Tier (1)
Roaches Upper Tier (6)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (9)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (18)
Shining Clough Rocks (6)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage North (2)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (3)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (7)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (32)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (19)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (9)
Windgather (23)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (18)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)

Climbing Walls Used:

Manchester Climbing Centre (118)
Marple Rope Race (3)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (180)
The Depot: Manchester (70)
Warrington North Face (3)

Other Evening Meets (117)

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