Evening Meets (2023)
Troy Quarry
Wed 19th Apr, 2023
After Rory Marsden had been rained off two weeks in a row for this venue, it was time for a meet leader who had more clout with the weather gods to step up to the plate.
Fortunately, for Daniel Arrowsmith, Fergal McCullough, Lewis Stonehouse, Liam Brady, Duncan Lee it was a (seasonably) warm and bright evening sheltered from the wind at Troy Quarry.
Liam led with two seconds, Lewis and Duncan in tow, Mucky Pups, Stacked Deck, and the Siamese Twins (Left and Right).
Daniel took a more systematic approach and did the first 5 routes (according to the 2020 Wired Guide) from right to left of the Quarry. These were Stilton, Open Sesame, Little Sneak, Chicane and One Way Street.
A very good return for a couple of hours at the crag and a very enjoyable evening was had by all.
Daniel ArrowsmithCastle Naze
Wed 26th Apr, 2023
Castle Naze – Wednesday 26th April
Attendees: Sean Clancy, Yvonne King, Dylan Smith, Brian Tarnowski, Daniel Arrowsmith and Jessica Bailey.
Jess and Daniel climbed - eventually - after wandering around for what felt like half an hour whilst deciding what to do. Some climbing was later achieved with the pair completing Keep Arete (VS 4a), Scoop Face (HVS 5a), Scoop Direct (HVS 5a). Jess commented that Keep Arete was “just a bit of me, that”, which is in my opinion complete gibberish, and I would like everyone who meets her to let her know that. Whilst not spouting nonsense Jess made steady leads of Keep Corner (S 4a) and Footstool Right (HVD 4a), with Daniel somehow making a pig's ear of both on second.
Brian and Dylan climbed together with Dylan taking all the leads and a good selection of routes in The Niche (S 4a), Studio (HS 4b), Keep Corner (S 4a), and Green Crack (S 4a) in his stride. Thry also completed the classic (three stars in my opinion, Rockfax) jamming crack Pilgrim’s Progress, (HS 4b) with Brian battling behind. “Give me 30m of that and I’ll be a happy man” said Dylan, preferring his jamming routes to be precisely 2.5 times longer than they actually are. Hopefully it was a decent enough warm up before your trip to Arran, Dylan!
Sean and Yvonne visited several buttresses with Sean leading all of Slanting Crack (HVD 4a), Zig-a-zag-a (VD) and Central Tower (VD) whilst Yvonne led her way up Easy Crack (Diff). The duo did not seem to want to leave the crag with torches seen well after sunset. Rumour has it that they are still out there, somewhere, living off the land…
Daniel Arrowsmith
Higgar Tor
Wed 3rd May, 2023
Andy Stratford, Brian Tarnowski, Daniel Arrowsmith and Gareth Williams were the lucky four who braved the rough grit of Higgar Tor. It was a beautiful sunny evening with a biting cold wind making it feel very cold in the shade. Numerous routes were climbed, including Paddock (VDiff), Greymalkin (S), Hectate (VDiff) and Piece of Cake (HVDiff). And of course the notorious jamming route The File (VS 4c). Andy followed Daniel up the route, the latter enjoyed his lead so much that he decided to climb it a second time - solo and without any undue difficulty (but how about putting your helmet on next time??!!). Andy and Daniel stayed a bit later and were making good progress up The Rat's Tail (VS 5a) when I left.
Gareth WilliamsDovestones Edge, Chew Valley
Wed 10th May, 2023
A damp and showery day meant this meet was moved indoors at Awesome Walls.
Hopefully, we'll get a chance to slot it in the calendar on another Wednesday, wait for some settled weather, and have a week with a bonus extra night out!
Awesome wall attendees - members: Andy Stratford, Daniel Arrowsmith, Brian Tarnowski, and Rob Allen were also there anyway with Sarah.
Prospective members: Yvonne King, Will Richardson and Lewis Stonehouse
Andy Stratford
Windgather Rocks
Wed 17th May, 2023
Wowsers what a turnout. KMC Windgather takeover! It wasn't warm, it wasn't sunny, but that didn't stop Brian, Jess, Dave, Ed, Barry, Lewis, Dan, Mich, Andy, Andy (snap!!), Paul, Adam, Ged, Stefano, Roger, Duncan and myself making the most of the evening. And probably a few others - I'm afraid I lost count. We climbed everything from VDs to practise setting up belays to acrobatic soloing... it would probably be quicker to list the routes we didn't climb rather than all the ones we did.
Caroline Gay
The Roaches
Wed 31st May, 2023
The Roaches – Wednesday 31st May 2023
Attendees
Daniel Arrowsmith, Andy Lewtas, Paul Lonsdale, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Will Richardson, Dylan Smith, Brian Tarnowski
After failing thoroughly to arrange the appropriate weather for the meets at Troy Quarry earlier in the year this was a definite success. Glorious sunshine bathed the upper tier of the Roaches and while the Northerly breeze was a little chilly on the top it was keeping the midgies down wonderfully. Out of the wind at the base of the crag it was almost (almost) too warm!
Early arrivals Will and Dylan paired up and with Will employing the tactic of “point Dylan at the hard stuff” headed off to warm up on Jeffcoats Buttress, HS 5a. They followed this up with ascents of Humdinger, E1 5b and The Sloth, HVS 5a. According to Will the reachy crux of Humdinger is definitely a stiff test as is the fist jam to overcome the lip of the overhang on The Sloth. Having smoothly led all three routes Dylan declared that he had arrived a bit tired from work but intends to go back full of energy to try some hard stuff another day!
Paul arrived in time to assist a party who had become stuck on the pedestal of Pedestal Route, HVD 4a. After the leader had lowered off his original second Paul tied in and duly followed up to finish the route.
Meantime, Brian started out with me belaying him on an excellent lead of Right Route, VD. Fergal arrived and so I suggested he second Brian, thinking I would then follow up. As Fergal set off Andy arrived so we split and I led Central Route, VS 4a with Andy while Fergal completed Right Route with Brian.
Brian and Fergal moved on to their own ascent of Pedestal Route which turned out to be another adventure, particularly as neither had realised that it was one of the Roaches multi-pitch routes. Having found the initial climbing more strenuous than expected Brian, on lead, was faced with the tricky mantle to mount the pedestal. Fortunately, Brian found a good gear placement to protect the move. Unfortunately, a slight underestimate on the amount of extension required led to an impromptu investigation of the effect of rope drag and an almighty struggle to make it onto the ledge. Having battled magnificently to get established on the pedestal it was now apparent that two pitches was the only possible approach and so Brian brought Fergal up to join him. After a consultation with the passing Dylan (heading up The Sloth) on the arrangement of the belay for pitch two, Brian led on. Dismounting the pedestal turned out to be just as tricky as mounting it and after a slip on attempt number one Brian recomposed himself and headed across the slab and into the corner crack from where the climbing eases. Having topped out cold and tired from the exertions on the route this was the last of the night for Brian and Fergal.
Later than planned, Daniel arrived in time to pair up with Paul (after Pedestal Route round 1) and together they got on a couple of Hard Severes and then finished with Saul’s Crack, HVS 5a, which Daniel reported as “really cruisy” though there might be one or two in the club who disagree!
After Central Route, Andy and I took a walk along to Maud’s Garden, HVD 3c, which was led by Andy and turned out to be an excellent route. Maud’s Garden has a bit of everything, starting with a slab, leading into an easy upper crack which ends on a large ledge. From the ledge a squirm up a short chimney takes you to a finish up an airy but juggy arete, fantastic! By now the sun was setting but I still thought we had time for one more climb so we jumped on the classic Black and Tans, S 4a. It turns out we did have time, but only just with Andy struggling to see what gear he was taking out of the gloomy corner belay at the top of pitch one.
Having seen everyone else depart Andy and I packed up in the dark and made the walk back to the cars by torchlight. Another evening of KMC making the most of every minute of daylight!
See you next time,
Rory.
Rory Marsden
Burbage North
Wed 7th Jun, 2023
Attendees
Daniel Arrowsmith, Jess Bailey, Yvonne King, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Andy Stratford, Lewis Stonehouse
NORTHERN NEWS
MAN BREAKS LEG, SAVED BY PORK PIE!
“I’ve got to put you down, I’m about to pass out!” There is never a good time to hear these words from your belayer. However, the remaining three feet to the ground didn’t seem too problematic having already made an unplanned gravity assisted descent from the crux mantle of The Chant, HVS 5a, and Andy had already caught my fall. What was worrying was that Andy did look like he might pass out. Thanks to weight differential and fall dynamics Andy had been launched upwards as he arrested my fall, as expected. The collision between Andy’s leg and the underside corner of the very solid gritstone overlap was both unexpected and extremely painful. Faced with a medical emergency Andy deployed the Northern remedy, a pork pie, which worked wonders.
The Chant was our fourth route of the evening. Andy, Lewis and I had arrived early and worked through Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, Baseless, HVD, and Triangle Crack, HVD 4a to warm up.
Not ready to admit defeat I left my gear on The Chant and while Andy composed himself, I belayed Lewis on Cranberry Crack, VD. Cranberry Crack might be V Diff for those who have refined their jamming technique but is somewhat harder for those who are new to the dark arts as Lewis found out shortly before he too became airborne. Suitably revived by his pork pie Andy set about untangling the crag from our web of ropes by first finishing off Cranberry Crack with Lewis and the newly arrived Yvonne and then a very credible one-legged attempt at The Chant.
Jess and Fergal also arrived about that time and they quickly got stuck into Route 2, S 4a, and Route 3, VD 4a before progressing on to Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a. During the course of the evening Jess seemed to be conducting a group test on crack gloves, we will look forward to the write up of that!
Andy and Yvonne carried on to 20 Foot Crack, S 4b, Mutiny Crack, HS 4b, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a.
Having already ticked the trying hard box for the evening Lewis and I looked to restore some confidence. Lewis enjoyed leads of Steptoe, M, followed by …and Son, Diff, which were both dispatched with little drama. I led Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, and then we finished on Monkey Corner, HVD.
Daniel was the last to join the party and quickly set about soloing everything in sight and was soon spotted on Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, among others. Daniel was finally roped in to a party for an ascent of Wednesday Climb, HVS 5b. Other than Yvonne who made a successful ascent on second, I am not sure exactly who else attempted Wednesday Climb but there seemed to be a great deal of hilarity among those in the vicinity.
With the light fading and the odd midge starting to appear it was time to head for the cars and the drive home. Most of the group managed to get at least five routes in with some hitting double figures which once again proved why Burbage North is a great midweek venue. Thanks all for coming out and to Jo for scheduling and organising!
Until next time,
Rory.
Rory Marsden
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth
Wed 14th Jun, 2023
Running Hill Pits - 14 June 2023
Attendees: Jess Bailey, Yvonne King, Robert Clark, Fergal McCullough, Daniel Arrowsmith and Phil.
By the time I had arrived Robert had already completed the classic ‘Dead Dog Crack’ (VS 4c) which Fergal was just about done wrestling with. The next contender Jess then followed to retrieve the remainder of Robert’s gear and practice her jamming.
Robert then superbly waltzed (lead) up Sodom (E1 5c) with me in tow and not particularly pleased at how easy Robert made it look for a route he once seconded around 10 years before! Robert would then go on to lead Cave Crack and take a gander at Breakdown (HVS 5c) but decided the better of it.
Yvonne arrived later after a fight with a barbed wire fence (she lost) and traipsing around the quarries (my superb direction arrived approximately the day after). However, her tardiness and mildly amputated leg did not stop her seconding Phil on Dead Dog Crack and The Cracks (Severe) then leading Hazy Groove (VD). Despite pretending to be a caver, Yvonne could not figure out how to squirm up Cave Crack. Maybe next time Yvonne!
Jess later coolly led Hazy Groove and The Cracks whilst seconding Fergal on Dusty Arete (Diff). I say coolly as she was determined to wear her ‘on point’ shades all day, apparently it being sunny is an excuse these days. So rad.
I’d rather not talk about what I did or didn’t(!) do but some climbing was done by me too.
Daniel Arrowsmith
Stanage - High Neb
Wed 5th Jul, 2023
Members: Andy Stratford and Fergal McCollough
Prospective member: Niamh Barry
The numerous weather forecasts obtained by the long list of potential attendees caused a debate about attending..... There was cause for both optimism and pessimism and whilst most decided to go with pessimism and headed for the indoor wall, I kept the faith and willed the rain gods to give us a break.....
After collecting Niamh from Hathersage station we arrived at a dry, breezy, midge-free High Neb. I set about a lead of Tango Buttress (HS 5a) which Niamh followed with ease. Cave Buttress Direct was next - a superb 2-star S4b with a crux start an exciting traverse and a steep exposed finish all of which required some smart ropework which Niamh led in good style. I decided on the jamming fest of Erics Eliminate S4a next and Fergal arrived and tied on. ''I hate Jamming'' he declared at the top.... ''well why are you at Stanage with me then?''.....
Niamh had her eye on the superb 2-star Inaccessible Crack VS 4c - more jamming practice for Fergal (I reckon she did it deliberately!).... again, a confident lead, considering she doesn't own her own rack and borrowed mine!.
Just as we topped out we got a sharp shower - it was 8.15 pm, we'd managed four excellent routes, so we went home feeling the weather gamble had paid off.
Andy Stratford
Moved to Hobson Moor
Wed 12th Jul, 2023
In attendance:
Members: Andrew Stratford, Michelle Harrison, Fergal McCullough, Daniel Arrowsmith
Prospectives: Joe McArdle, Claire Hawkings, Stefano Dalcanale, Niamh Barry and Olly
Due to a damp start to the day and lower than average summer temperatures we thought better of going to the north-facing and very likely damp Wimberry Rocks, and decided to go to a local favourite, Hobson Moor Quarry instead.
By the time I arrived I found Michelle and Andy climbing Epitaph Corner (HS 4b) with Michelle applying the old maxim, “If in doubt, run it out” with her gear ceasing around the half-way mark. Andy then led Foghorn Groove (VS 4c) quite vocally whilst still looking comfortable enough. Michelle seconded The Harp (HS 4a) and found it so good that she decided to second it again with Claire Hawkins..
l led a couple routes in Drizzle (E3 6a) and Dragon’s route (E3 5c) (Yes, I’ll taking the Over the Moors guidebook grades…) with Claire giving a valiant attempt on Drizzle after warming up by racking and un-racking her (quite shiny) trad gear at least three times. Andy also came up Drizzle with some difficulty and seconded up Dragon’s route which he found to be a fair amount easier.
Elsewhere in the quarry Niamh and Olly clocked up Bring Me Sunshine (E1 5b), Crews Route (VS 4c), Foghorn Groove, and The Harp. Olly initially got somewhat lost on Bring Me Sunshine but successfully found the right line on a successful repeat attempt.
Fergal also climbed the Harp, and Ledge Way (HS 4b) with Joe McArdle seconding steadily. Fergal attempted Foghorn Groove but decided to come back for it another day. Stefano, seconded a good handful of routes with various including Foghorn Groove, The Harp and Epitaph Corner.
All in all, a very pleasant and productive few hours at Hobby Moor which still has a number of challenges left despite being my very most local crag.
Daniel Arrowsmith
Bamford
Wed 19th Jul, 2023
Attendees: Jess Bailey, Sean Clancy, Ryan Gregory, Mich Harrison, Jess Pealing, Joe Mcardle, Fergal McCullough, Andy Stratford, Lewis Stonehouse. Special guest appearance: Dan O’Brian
A long a great sunny evening, blessed with a break in the rainy season, which we, for tradition, still call ‘Summer’.
Andy and me were first at arrive and started off with a lead for me on Bamford Wall (S 4a), followed by Andy, who then led Ryan, on his first ever UK single pitch, and then me on the Happy Wanderer (S4a). Ryan seemed to find the wander happy and was keen for more! He certainly had a value for money first gritstone experience by the end of the evening, ticking 6 quality routes.
Heading over to Wrinkled wall, we were joined by Lewis and Fergal. Lewis did a great job of following me very carefully on the delicate low traverse across Wrinkled Wall (VS 4c), while Ryan had a go at belaying Andy up Sinuous Crack (Vdiff) which both he and Fregal seconded. Having expired easy local options, we headed to Salmon slab. As we made our way over, Dan magically appeared, looking to give soloing a miss for the evening and tie onto a rope.
Dan made a beeline to Bilberry Crack, taking Andy and Rayan up afterwards. The rest of the party arrived in fine spirits for a good evening session. Lewis thought he’d give Hasta La Vista (HVD 3c) a go – despite the ‘not much gear’ description. Finding the description a little too accurate, he bailed part way. Fergal was keen to see what all the fun was about, but also decided to bail at about the same place as Lewis. It took Jess B to show everyone how it was done! Jess P followed her up, making team ‘double Jesspardy’ a winner! (Andy’s winning team name contribution). Feeling brave, I had a go at Quien Sabe? (VS 4c) taking the low crux of Brown’s Crack, then a second high crux, I regretted my decision as I realised I’d have to try hard. With Dan calling over useful baffle beating beta and Andy’s shouts of ‘reach and pull’ echoing in my ears, I eventually managed, with a few grunts, the pull over the bulge and top out. Having arrived quite late, Sean was keen to give it a go and in Dan A’s absence, Jess B felt she needed a challenge, so, after finishing bringing Jess P up Shallow Groove, (with her grunts of effort echoing up the groove) Jess also got a rope on it and made light work of it. Apparently not quite hard enough when you're usually following up after Dan A.
After having fun on Hasta La Vista, Fergal and Joe found more protectable climbing on Shallow Groove (S 4a) and Recess Crack (Vdiff)
Dan, Andy and Ryan had been having fun on Sandy Crack (HS 4b) and Curving Crack (VS 4c). Dan wanted to finish on Bamford Rib (HVS 5a) so off they went, while Sean shunted gear up Brown’s Crack, having left his useful larger cams on the ground. I seconded up and as dusk fell, we called it a fine evening and went to the pub.
Thanks all for a great evening!
Back to Current !!!!
If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-
Participation Statement
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
More Evening Meets:
During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.
Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.
If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.
Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:
Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (17)Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (16)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (9)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (3)
Cadshaw Rocks (6)
Castle Naze (23)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (15)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (13)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (17)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (13)
Helsby (14)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (44)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (5)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (7)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (12)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (16)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Lower Tier (1)
Roaches Upper Tier (7)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (9)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (18)
Shining Clough Rocks (6)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage North (2)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (3)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (7)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (33)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (19)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (9)
Windgather (22)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (18)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Climbing Walls Used:
Manchester Climbing Centre (118)Marple Rope Race (3)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (181)
The Depot: Manchester (70)
Warrington North Face (3)
Other Evening Meets (126)
Lancs online guidebook
