Evening Meets (2014)
Longford Park Boulder
Wed 12th Mar, 2014
Dave, Al
A good start to the mid-week meets, plenty of overhangs to get them forearms aching.
Victoria Park Boulder
Wed 19th Mar, 2014
Dave, Al
Another good evening and enough light to boulder at 7:00pm. Next week will be the last outdoors midweek to get a winter tick before moving into BST.
Dunnwood Park Boulder, Shaw
Wed 26th Mar, 2014
Dave, Emily, Mark, Trish, Al
The small group just managed get an hours worth of bouldering in before the drizzle set in.
Hobson Moor Quarry (roll-over)
Wed 9th Apr, 2014
A smashing turnout of fifteen at the first proper meet of the year, with some classic Hobbie routes ticked off.
Members: Emily Pitts, Meirion Tanner, Andy Stratford, Clay Conlon, Dave Shotton, Dave Wylie, Koy oi Ding, Mark Ashley, Gareth Williams, Al Metelko
Guests: Nils Elgar, Elliott Brown, Hong Thoong, Charlotte, Innes MacDonald
Mark, Emily and Andy led Pocket Wall (VDiff) with a wide swathe of seconders scooting up after them. Foghorn Groove (VS 4c) was led by Meirion and Andy, plus others remaining anonymous. Meirion led Tighe's arête (E1 5a) seconded by both Emily and Dave W.
Steve's dilemma (E2 6a) was worked elegantly by Gareth and attempted on a second with serious dogging by both Emily and Andy, whose extreme efforts were unrewarded. Gareth soloed Peak Arête (E1, 5a), then led Midnight Variation at HS 4a after Andy backed off.
Clay led Crews Route (VS 4c). The Harp (VS 4b) saw leads from several including Dave W and Mark. Nils led up Epitaph corner (VS 4b).
Meanwhile, prowling around the perimeter of the quarry partaking in the occasional discussion, was Al.
A wonderful evening smattered with occasional bursts of sun, giving us all a taste of what's to come ...... Roll on next week at Pex Hill.
Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley
Tue 22nd Apr, 2014
Lovely setting, superb view, breezy. 15 minute walk up hill.
Members: Mark Ashley, Ding, Meirion Tanner
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth
Wed 30th Apr, 2014
The ever excellent Pits
Member Present: Andy Stratford
A quick solo of The Arete Vdiff in No3 Quarry, bouldering on the Pinnacle and Self Rescue on Sodom and Gomorrah! A lovely dry evening. Voting surprisingly difficult but eventually Pule Hill won out.
Pule Hill, Marsden
Wed 7th May, 2014
Natural Buttresses, Quarry, Great views, Sunset, 5 minute walk in.
Wet.
Rollover to next week.
Pule Hill, Marsden
Wed 14th May, 2014
roll-over
A lovely summers evening - enough wind to keep the beasties at bay, but a great sunset and moonrise. At least twenty tonight at this gem of a crag.
Members: Dave Wylie, Stuart Hurworth, Andy Stratford, Dan O'Brien, Mark Ashley, Koy Oi Ding, Nick Adamson, Ian Crook, Christine Beeston, Al Metelko, Steve Graham, James Williams, Helen Boothman.
Guests: Anna Reeves, Mirella De Jonge, Dan Metcalfe, Nils Elgar, Gemma Porter, Hannah, Mark and at least one other whose name escaped me.
Loads of routes done on virtually all the buttresses and a stint in the quarries as well.
Ten made it to the pub - four crags up for the vote tonight: Den Lane and Earl Sterndale were eliminated and it was even stevens for Dovestones Edge and Troy Quarry. Heads was the call for troy but Dovestones it was on tails. The double sided coin came in handy.
See you all next week!
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley
Wed 21st May, 2014
Sunset crag, excellent views, great lower grade routes. 40 minute walk in. bring headtorch!
Another good turnout with twelve of us enjoying a sunny gorgeous evening high above the Chew valley, windy enough to keep the midges away but otherwise an evening climbing after work doesn't come better than this on the rough gritstone of the Chew Valley. The routes often appear green as this venue is less visited but the friction on the rock is incredible and some of the routes are of the very highest quality.
Members present: Dave Wylie, Stuart Hurworth, Mark Ashley, Koy Oi Ding, Dan O'Brien, Ian Crook, Dave Shotton, Andy Stratford. Meirion Tanner.
Guests: Mirella De Jonge, Anna Reeves, Matt Harrigan.
Many Routes ascended including Route II, Coopers Crack, The Direct Route, Nasal Buttress, Nasal Buttress RH, Central Tower, Answer Crack, Question Mark and the Triplets.
Mark Ashley managed to get his nuts stuck and all efforts by Ding to tease them out failed - Meirion came to the rescue and performed a swift extraction.
After all that excitement it was time for the Clarence where Bridestones was first out, then Teggs Nose. Troy bested Wilton in the final showing by just one vote. We go Greek next week!
Troy Quarry, Nr Haslingdon
Wed 28th May, 2014
Easy access ancient Greek venue off the M66. Excellent Routes. Sunsets. 5 minute walk in.
No reports of daring do at the quarry, so it rolls over to next week.
Troy Quarry
Wed 11th Jun, 2014
roll-over 2!
A good turnout on a sunny evening but only 5 went to the pub and decide on next weeks venue. Partial list of attendees (please email the club with anyone missing): Ian, Dan, Mirella, Stuart, Al, DaveW, Elliott, Meirion, James, Duncan, Anisa, Bron and least another two.
Shining Clough Rocks
Wed 18th Jun, 2014
George Williams G, Gaz Phillipson G, Melanie Séverin G, Matt Harrigan G, Bethan Thomas G, Stuart Hurworth M, Dan O'Brien M, Mirella de Jonge G, Matt Harrigan G, Al Metelko M, Emily Pitts M, Agnes Beviz G, Dan Metcalf G, Bron G, Doug G.
A splendid meet at a majestic location, a slightly less than majestic walk-in though, through human-height brash and ankle-breaking holes cheekily hidden by heather.
A very good number for a Wednesday meet at a location that can be described only as esoteric. The weather improved, with a slight wind blowing away the dreadful beasts that blight our beautiful sport, just in time. Topped off with a cracking sunset and superb gritstone.
Two prospective new members arrived a little after the rest of us, Bron and Doug. We didn't get much of a chance to talk. Hopefully we didn't scare you off - hope to see you again soon, if you're reading this!
A great number of prospective new members formed part of this meet, with four members and eleven guests. Great to see so many new faces.
Dan M and Mirella took on east rib in very capable manner, with Dan and al later shimmying up Pisa super direct in fine style. Various other pisa's were also overcome by various others.
Dan O led Phoenix climb vs 4c with composure and grace, followed up by Emily.
Stu gave Stable crack. Vs 4b a run for it's money, with Emily in tow behind.
Everyone else did loads of other routes and we left the crag at around 10.20, arriving back in the dark.
Next week's options were laid out: castle naze, teg's nose and Bamford edge, with the latter rising the victor.
The longest day approaches and our approaches will be reducing hereon in.
See you next week.
Emily Pitts
Bamford Edge
Wed 25th Jun, 2014
Bring bivy and bbq kit to enjoy the shortest midweek night of the year.
Members: Dan O'Brien, Ding, Mark Ashley, Laura Collier, James Williams, Dave Wylie, Helen Boothman, Mark Pilling, Nils Elgar. Guests: Carrie Marr, Conrad Bower, Anna Fournier, Clare Hodgeson, Fruit and Andy(?) sorry didn't get a surname...
Midge Hell for the midsummer Wednesday!
A great turn-out and fantastic enthusiasm considering the number of glade-land filthies swarming around KMC-ers heads wrists and ankles though surprising few people were keen on the suggestion of and overnight bivvi... Loads of ascents including Gargoyle Flake, Neb Buttress, Bamford Wall, Bamford Rib and Browns Crack. After an hour of exsanguination the bulk of the party decided to retreat to the relative safety of the Yorkshire Bridge Inn whilst the hardier souls persevered, donning suitable PPE (midge nets, trousers tucked in socks and copious amounts of DEET) were last seen heading off in the direction of Wrinkled Wall.
In the pub, the candidates for next week were Tegs Nose, Rivelin Edge, Bridestones, Witches Quarry and Ramshaw. Tegs Nose, Rivelin and Bridestones fell at the first hurdle leaving an almost evenly divided vote until Nils jumped ship and swung it for Ramshaw - pack your tape, its Jamming time!
Conrad and I stayed in the pub until closing then headed up to the crag for a well deserved sleep. The midges had also retired for the night leaving us to enjoy a dram of old Scottish medicine before bed. The next morning dawned cool and dry and we bagged ascents of Bamford Wall and Bamford Rib before heading back to Manchester in time for work (and to escape the midges, who also rise early it appears...)
Dan
Ramshaw Rocks
Wed 2nd Jul, 2014
Members: Dan O'Brien, Roger Dyke, Ding, Mark Ashley, Helen Boothman, Mark Pilling, Ian Crook, Stuart Hurworth.
Guests: James Duthie, Anna Fournier, Clare Hodgeson, Andy Pierce, Sebastian Q (sorry forgot the surname...)
It is always a little off-putting to arrive at the bottom of a route to find the remains of a wreath laid at the bottom of it – those of you who have been to Windgather will recognize this sentiment from the seemingly permanent memorial at the bottom of Portfolio. More disturbing, however was the realisation, about halfway up the route, that the strange dusty residue on all the ledges and holds is actually someone’s scattered ashes. Stranger still was Stuart explaining that he had actually encountered this before at Black Rocks.
Anyway… A wonderfully short walk-in and another good turn-out. Mark Ashley opened the proceedings by swimming in a local bog-snorkeling course as a warm-up followed by an ascent of Louis Groove (E1), a feat replicated by Helen, Andy and myself, all braving the additional psychological barrier of having a dead guy smeared on most of the holds. Roger was pleased to have found a quality route of an amenable grade on grit that he had never done before – no mean feat after 40 years on rock!
Guest James enjoyed a gentle introduction to gritstone jamming by leading The Crank and following Assegai and Green Crack. The latter even gave Jam-Master Ian a run for his money and James treated onlookers to an interesting lesson is Scottish slang after I (sensibly) refused to even leave the ground for this renowned horror-show... Other notable ascents included Flaky Wall, Boomerang, Arete and Crack, and The Wriggler (HS 4b) led by Ding in mistake for a V.Diff and ably sand-bagged by Mark.
As the light faded, the team decamped to the Winking Owl for a raucous debate on next week’s crag. Alderly Cliff and New-Mills Tor were first out, the former receiving nil-point as even proposer Mark P couldn’t muster any enthusiasm for it. Witches went next despite Mark Ashley’s detailed descriptions of the unique belay anchors (a key selling point it seems…) Millstone and Wimberry went into the run-off with Wimberry winning out following defections from the Millstone camp in the last round. More jamming for next week so don’t pack away the big cams and tape just yet. A bonus for me being this crag is less than ten minutes from my house so a G&T in the pub is definitely on the cards…
Dan
Wimberry Rocks
Wed 9th Jul, 2014
“I hope you like Jammin’ too…” – Bob Marley
Members: Helen Boothman. Dan O'Brien, Laura Collier, Koy Oi Ding, Al Metelko, Jim Symon, Stuart Hurworth, Meirion Tanner, Andy Stratford, Dave Wylie, Simon Robertshaw.
Guests: Andy Pierce, Bron Edwards, George Williams.
Oh how clever we all thought voting for Wimberry in the comfort of the pub last week. Half-way up that bloody hill it certainly didn’t feel like such a good idea… The crag however was, as ever, superb. Wimberry, is one of the finest crags in the peak district and would probably be one of the most popular if it didn’t face north, sit at the top of a massive hill and the rough grit-stone cracks, for which the place is renowned, didn’t maul you so mercilessly. Even with so many obvious flaws, the density of heavily starred routes means that any group will certainly find something worthwhile to do.
Another admiral turnout for a sunny Wednesday evening – although the crag was, as always, in the shade. Simon performed admirably for his first climb in six-months by arriving by walking in barefoot, following Dave up the hardest V.Diff on grit and then walking out barefoot, a feat to match Bilbo Baggins. Andy S led Bertie’s Bugbear (S) which must have been something of a comedown after a month in the Andes but he got stuck into those green slimy jams all the same. Later whilst following Ornithologists Corner (VS) he managed to get a jam so stuck that it almost needed a nut-key to remove it. In an attempt to share the suffering, Andy lent his harness to Jim (who had neglected to pack it for his long hike from Mossley) only to have Jim cruise up the steep jamming.
There were loads of ascents of Route 1 (HS) and Route 2 (VS) (imaginatively named adjacent cracks) whilst Helen and Andy P moved quickly and competently about the crag ticking Herringbone Slab (HVS), Pinball Wizard (E1) and attempting Charm (E3) but backing off at the crux pebble deciding that on this occasion, discretion was the better part of valor. Helen’s description of the upper section from a top rope confirmed what a good decision this was! Meirion, borrowing every large cam at the crag, set about the vicious off-width of Freddie’s Finale (E1). After flaying both fists on the initial section he decided to try to “out-technical” it by embarking on a fancy (and successful) sequence involving high feet and lay-backing. After trying everything to avoid seconding (Ding and Laura had a good go but the crux eluded them) I was forced to tie on and re-open all the scars from Ramshaw that had only just healed.
In the pub, after a complex round of voting count-backs for tie-breaks we were left with a choice between Millstone and Castle-Naze. Once again Millstone lost out... Maybe we can have an organised meet there next year?
Dan
Castle Naze
Wed 16th Jul, 2014
“Take me in and dry the rain…” – The Beta Band
Members: Dan O'Brien, Andy Stratford, Simon Robertshaw.
Guests: Bron Edwards.
I discovered whilst surfing the web for inspirational photos of Castle Naze that the name of the crag comes from the remains of the Iron Age hill fort that are behind the crag on the top of the hill. Logical really as the hilltop has a commanding view of the surrounding country - those early defenders would have had no problem spotting our approach from Chapel-en-le-frith.
It looked like it was going to be a wash out but the faithful arrived at the crag to be treated to clearing clouds and a stiff breeze that dried the rock quickly.
Climbing as a four, swift ascents of Nozag and Scoop face (with a special mention for Simon the human pendulum). We then split into pairs where Bron and Simon climbed The Niche, a pumpy 2-star severe. Bron said she'd never had such tired arms whilst climbing - obviously she's never been to Broughton!
Andy and I climbed Flywalk (without bridging this gets VS and Andy climbed with impeccable discipline to resist the tempting bridging rests as he battled with the steep crux). We finished the evening with The Fifth Horseman, an HVS which takes an eliminate line on the left-hand side of the crag involving some pebble pulling and low runners. Looking at the guidebook I'm struggling to separate the HVS from the adjacent E2. Perhaps Rockfax should split the difference and call it E1...
With only four of us in the pub and three nominations (Wilton 1, Hen Cloud and Helsby) only one round of voting was required to get us heading off to Runcorn next Wednesday for some sandstone action.
Dan
Helsby
Wed 23rd Jul, 2014
High Quality Sandstone crag
“Runcorn, everybody loves Runcorn,
It’s where your chemicals come from,
And everybody loves chemicals...” - The PJ Party
Members: Dan O’Brien, Mark Ashley, Koy Oi Ding, Stuart Hurworth, Gareth Williams, Simon Robertshaw
Guests: Bron Edwards, Mirella de Jonge, Beth Thomas, Matt Harrigan, Ben Slater, Ivan Cabrera, Doug Arnold
What could be better than a glorious sunset over the Mersey estuary, blemished only slightly by the chemical plan and oil refinery, to round off the hottest day of the year?
Helsby crag is an obvious landmark for climbers heading to North Wales on the M56 however few tend to stop, probably because from the motorway, the place looks grim, dark and infinitely less inviting than ploughing on to the warm safety of the hut... The reality though is a clean, compact sandstone crag with some fantastic routes that is, in my opinion wrongly, often overlooked.
Doug and Ivan had an interesting introduction to the vagaries of sandstone by climbing Grooved Slab (VS 4a) a route with literally no gear in its XXm length – no mean feat in 29C heat. Stuart and Beth both led the classic of the crag – Flake Crack, a soaring corner that gets HVS in the new guide. Stuart and I also climbed Wood’s Climb (HVS). There were a number of ascents of Twin Caves Crack (HS) and Dinnerplate Crack (VS) – both with steep starts and sharp holds. Mirella led Greenteeth Crack (HS), a full-body-pump of a chimney that mauled the knees and elbows of everyone else, in fine determined style. Bron and Simon climbed End Crack (S) as did Mark and Ding after stopping on the walk in for a swim in the hilltop pool. In the fading light, Gareth head-pointed Cinemascope (E4) in fine style and even managed to haul my sorry ass through the crux.
As we packed up and headed for the pub, Beth decided that she was coming back this weekend for a crack at Eliminate 1 – the classic E1 of the crag. Immediately planning to return after a first visit? There is no higher recommendation than that for an otherwise much maligned venue.
There was some attrition on the journey from crag to pub. Nominations for next week were Witches Quarry, Hen Cloud, Wharncliffe and Ravenstones. Despite my best efforts to extol the virtues of Wharncliffe and Mark’s almost poetic description of the belay stakes, parking and pubs for Witches it was Ravenstones that won through (though I think Stuart will be referring the vote to international monitors amid allegations of vote rigging...) Sandals required for the novel approach next week – else you can just yomp up the hill...
Dan
PS – The PJ Party, excellent local band formed from members of the erstwhile Thingy-ma-Bob and the Thingy-ma-Jigs. Look them up...
Ravenstones - Chew Valley
Wed 30th Jul, 2014
Sunny evening aspect, stunning location, 'Over the Moors' guidebook only 'un-gradable' route - The Ravenstones Stomach Traverse
Members - Dan O'Brien, Mark Ashley, Ding, Laura Collier, Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Stuart Hurworth, Gareth Williams
Guests - Mirella De Jonge, Anna Reeves, Mark Haworth, Andy Harper
With Apologies to Edgar Allan Poe
The Ravenstone
Once upon a Wednesday cheery, while I wandered weak and weary,
Over many a tufty, peaty plateau of the Pennine moor,
With my rucksack, heavy bugger, suddenly I saw a hiker,
And another climbing climber, climbing on the barren moor.
`'Tis some KMC-er,' I muttered, `climbing on the barren moor -
Only this, and nothing more.'
As usual, on a Wednesday after work, in the midsummer;
The KMC will come and climb on local esoterica;
Eagerly I wished the walk-in over; - as it was a total bore;
Arriving at the Ravenstones, a classic crag of the traditional days of yore
A view of radiant beauty o'er cross the Pennine moor -
Who could ask for more.
Andy Stratford chose the Trinicle, a three-pronged rocky pinnacle
To open his account with a Top-50 Hard Severe;
The Left Monolith - “well travelled” one of the best routes here;
A good clean line with plenty of good holds and some good gear;
`And was followed by Stuart who patiently belayed Andy from the floor; -
This he did, and much more,'
But the quickest way was riding and his bicycle providing,
Gareth speedy access to the crag and time to look at routes before;
He was belayed on True Grit but in the dark it was a tricky git,
With pumpy moves on tough terrain and needing two Friend 4's
So the best approach discretion as he returned to the floor;
Quoth the Ravenstones – Nevermore.
Mark and Ding approached direct avoiding paths and climbing heather;
`Surely this can't be the best way; tell me truly' he implored;
'Climbing routes that were his namesake – Mark 1 – V.Diff and more;
And Laura rode her bike from Hyde with less rain than before;
And Mirella with some other guests, climbed K-Corner and Left Monolith -
Climbing here, and there and more.
Now having done the walk-in I should really do some climbing,
But the only route inspiring up there on the windy moor.
Was a grim traditional struggle of the saintly days of yore;
So I crawled along the break, grinding my face along the floor -
And though the gear was good we could not face three pitches more -
So we bailed - nothing more.
In the pub with beer and scratchings rested from our long walk-out;
Time for voting, three suggestions were propos-ed to the floor.
`Hen Cloud! (no more bird restrictions) was the first to be put forward;
Despite - despite and nepenthe from Stu's efforts to implore!
A trip to HenCloud was rejected by the KMC once more
Quoth the Ravenstone, `Nevermore.'
`Witches Quarry! crag of limestone! - Andy said, in Clitheroe -
Without walk-in, crag-side parking, who could ask for more?
But the KMC unmoving shunning Pendle Limestone too -
Even with exciting prospects – belaying out of the car door -
Or belay stakes and lush grass top-outs with no reason to implore!'
Quoth the Ravenstone, `Nevermore.'
`Woodhouse!' said I, `crag of roadside! - Woodhouse Scar a crag of gritstone!
In Halifax, no walk in and no traipsing 'cross the moors -
And defectors from the Witches' camp meant the vote was passed by four,
As the clock ticked to 11 most were heading for the door -
'Is there time for one last beer, is there more for anymore?
Quoth the Ravenstone, `Nevermore.'
Yet upon the teams departing Gareth stood and shrieked upstarting -
`There are three still missing wandering on the Night's Plutonian shore!'
Last seen topping out as night fell on the Trinicle for sure;
Made it safely to the car-park - though at dusk they locked the door!'
Will they have to stay the night upon the bleak chew valley floor.
Quoth the Ravenstone, `Nevermore.'
And the stragglers, never flitting, still are sitting, still are sitting
In the dark and dim Binn Green whilst locked remains the car-park door;
And the man from Oldham Council has been woken from his dreaming,
And his headlights will be streaming to the car-park on the moor;
As they wait to be released I sit an write this meet report;
And wait for next week – Nevermore.
Dan
Woodhouse Scar
Wed 6th Aug, 2014
2 minute walk in to this Yorkshire Grit venue in Halifax. Bouldering as well.
Members – Dan O’Brien, Mark Ashley, Dave Wylie, Helen Boothman, Stuart Hurworth, Simon Robertshaw
Guests - Mirella de Jonge, Ben Slater
Clearly weary from last week’s moorland exploits the KMC voted for a roadside crag – and there isn’t much more roadside than Woodhouse Scar. Situated in the centre of Halifax in a small park you park on the aptly named Rocks Road and hop a small wall to access the top of the crag. For such a convenient location the routes have worn surprisingly well with little polish apart from on the top-outs which is probably more the result of local youths sitting on the edge – I fear they may also be responsible for the bulk of the litter and broken glass also… The intrepid KMC were, however, undeterred.
There were a couple of ascents of the curiously named “Twin Cracks” – a stiff VS with a bold start that has a single, dog-leg crack by Helen, Simon, Stuart and Dave. Helen did point out that not all twins are identical but I remain unconvinced… Mirella and Ben had a harsh introduction to the vagaries of Yorkshire grading seconding Parete (HVS) with a very tough start (especially for the short)… Eventually a traversing start up Twin Cracks was employed still with some degree of difficulty – once again, the Yorkshire grading system and my ourangutan-esque reach was blamed…
The team moved on to Pyramid Buttress where Helen and Simon climbed Spread-Eagle (VS) and then joined Dave and Stuart in a team effort on Innominate Crack (Severe going on VS) – both excellent lines with great value for their short length. Myself, Mark, Ben and Mirella climbed Woodhouse Eliminate (E1), a delicate little number with a tricky start – if anything would teach you to love jamming cracks it is a smeary slab on Yorkshire Grit! As the sun set, a swift ascent of Spread Eagle by Ben, Mark and I closed proceedings and we retreated to the Barge and Barrel.
In the pub there were somehow more nominations than people sat round the table though after one round most were eliminated and the choice was reduced to Hen Cloud, Witches Quarry and Wharncliffe. On this occasion Wharncliffe won through so next week it’s climbing under pylons on some of some of J.W Puttrell’s most historic routes – pack your tweed and your flat caps…
Dan
Wharncliffe Crags
Wed 13th Aug, 2014
Meet around Great Buttress/Puttrells Progress area
Members- Dan O’Brien and Andy Stratford
“Whatever happened the Popular Peoples Front?” “He’s over there… Splitter!” – The Life of Brian
The risk of a soaking from the last hurrah of Hurricane Bertha and a lackluster forecast from the doughty Norwegians at yr.no was enough to persuade a significant contingent of the KMC that summer was over and that a session at Awesome Walls was the most sensible plan for Wednesday evening. For the hardier (or foolhardy?) however there was no real choice - the compact gritstone* of Wharncliffe was calling. Our optimism was rewarded with a warm and sunny, if breezy evenings climbing.
Wharncliffe is a crag with such history, with Puttrell first visiting in 1890 and putting up routes that still stand the test of time, it was a shame to arrive to find a significant amount of graffiti spray-painted around swathes of the Great Buttress area (though not on any of the routes as far as I can tell…) If I ever meet GEM we are going to have words – though at least paint will eventually wash off unlike the carvings of the 1950s from an age where youngsters had more respect…
Andy and I climbed Himellswilen, a completely unspellable classic VS which felt high in the grade - especially when I was taking a knee-bar no-hands rest and Andy was stuggling to reach any of the gear I had selfishly placed at the extent of my reach. A classic nonetheless. Next came Andy leading Tower Face, a heavily starred HS with some excellent technical climbing. We finished with a solo and top-rope attempt on Tensile Test (E1), a short but fingery wall climb with no gear to speak of – I was certainly glad of the extra confidence provided by the crash-pad.
Other routes climbed were Forget Me Not (S), Alpha Crack (D), Beta Crack (S), Romulus (VD), Remus (S), Fly Wall (HS), Fly Wall Gully (M) and Black Slab (Left, Centre and Right – VD).
As there were only two of us in the pub and with myself not planning to attend next week you would think it would be easy to settle on a venue… What followed was an in-depth discussion on the merits of Lancashire quarries over natural moorland edges. The moorland edges won out – it seems the potential for midges I the quarries is still a deterrent – Windgather next week!
Dan
*Coal Measures Sandstone according to Andy
Windgather
Wed 20th Aug, 2014
1 minute walk in. lots of easy routes. usually windy and midge free
Members: Andy Stratford, Dave Wylie, Mark Ashley, Christine Beeston, Roger Dyke
Guests: Anne Fournier, Andy Harper, Ben Slater, Elizabeth Wilson, Liz Kirk, Andrew Ault, Will, Tony
Excellent turnout with lots of new faces. Great weather tonight; plenty of wind to drive the beasties off and a lovely sunset. Lots of routes ascended on most of the buttresses including a first class lead of The Struggle by Mark Ash. Others included Middle Buttress Arete, Mississipi crack, High Buttress Arete, Squashed Finger, Aged Crack, Director, Footprint, Toenail, Route 1.5. Retreat to the swan for voting where we move back to the North again to Cow's Mouth Quarry.
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough
Wed 27th Aug, 2014
20 minute flat walk in. Great sunset venue. Bouldering mat can be useful. meet from 5.30pm to make the most of the evening light.
Members: Gareth williams, Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Emily Pitts, Mark Ashley, Peter Mcnulty.
Guests: Chris Hughes, Mirella de Jonge, Liz Kirk, Andrew Ault, Ben Slater, Beth Thomas.
Windy enough tonight to keep the beasties away - a good selection of routes climbed by various means: leading, soloing. leading with a rope but finding no useful gear anyway.....
On the slab Andy led Route one, King B, Route two and Slabmaster...and thought he was doing well until Gareth promptly solo'd them all....
Ben and Beth led on Dessers, Niche direct and Z crack. Mirella and Emily led Seasier. I lost count after this as so many routes were ascended so quickly!
Ten of us made the voting in the White House with Wilton One, Teggs Nose and Bridestones going out early it was between Heptonstall and Anglezarke - which eventually won by a whisker.
Anglezarke Quarry
Wed 3rd Sep, 2014
2 minute walk in, plenty to go at, easy motorway access. ''And it has a Z in it''.... (Mirella)
Anglezarke does have a Z in it.....lots of midgez.....lots of blackberriez....and lots of routes that don't begin with Z, some of which we climbed.......all twelve of us.....except Mirella who despite there being a Z in it didn't turn up!
Members: Helen Boothman. Gareth Williams, Andy Stratford. Dave Wylie.
Guests: Ben Slater, Matt Harrigan. Mark Haworth, Hannah Hughes, Nina Rithalia, Doug Arnold, Andrew Ault, James Meakin
Ben Slater managed an excellent lead of nightmare at VS 4b and some others.
Mark led up Aldred's Original (V Diff) and Meanwhile (S4a)
Matt executed a fine lead on Wedge (HS 4b) then wandered over to the Golden Tower with Andy S - Andy was intent on Samarkand but he just couldn't get started....again.....well maybe one day. Matt led up the fine and - we think - under-rated 'The Finger' at VS 5a. this really is an excellent route, great gear all the way, some slab moves, an overhang then a superb steep jamming crack to finish. Highly recommended.
Doug experienced a Metamorphasis (VS 4c) then was wished Many Happy Returns (HVS 5a).
Meanwhile, up in the E numbers.....Helen had a fine lead of First Finale (E1 5b), albeit after a bit of a rest followed by up by Gareth. They also wandered over to the Golden Tower where Gareth coolly despatched the classic of the quarry at E2 5c in very good style. Helen made a valiant effort to second it and could still feel it in her arms an hour later in the pub....and so to the vote.....New Mills Torrs vs Wilton 1 Vs Den Lane.....with Den Lane a clear winner....get your tricams out for the classic Three Notch Slab!
Den Lane, Uppermill
Wed 10th Sep, 2014
2 minutes walk in, good routes.
Members: Andy Stratford, Gareth Williams, Lucie Crouch, Dave Wylie, Mark Ashley, Helen Boothman, Emily Pitts, Clay Conlon.
Guests: Jools, Ben Slater, Matt Harrigan, Andy Shaw and Lester the dog,
Good turnout of twelve at one of the final meets of the summer season saw a good variety of action on The Long Wall.
Ben and Matt got stuck into Jive HS4b....Ben topped out and looked for a belay.....
'How do you place a tricam?'.....Helen went off to a good start on Three notch slab.
'Put your foot in the crack'
'but i don't like cracks'
'not even for your feet?'
'no!'
Ben had pulled almost all the rope through and still hadn't found the belay.
....Andy succeeded on the steep overhangs of Palais Glide after a good bit of exploratory fumbling for the magic hold. Helen followed, relieved that she didn't need to use a single crack.
Ben had now walked so far the rope had gone through all the gear and he was on his way to Oldham.
After just a little cajoling from Gareth above and Andy below Emily led Three notch slab in fine style. Helen set off up Fox Trot HVS 5a but finished up the cracks of Misissipi Dip - complaining loudly.
Matt set off to rescue Ben from the top of the quarry, arriving back with him covered in brushwood and midge-bites shortly before it went dark.
We retired to the Waggon where pork scratchings, crisps, nuts and other commodities were consumed whilst Ben contemplated his reputation for route finding. Wilton 1 came out pretty unanimously on top of New Mills and the Fallowfield pumphouse.
Wilton 1
Wed 17th Sep, 2014
5 minute walk, classic quarry venue with over 200 routes - one of the very best in Lancs.
Members: Andy Stratford, Dave Wylie, Clay Conlon
Guests: Ben Slater, Andy Shaw
Clay eventually tiptoed his way across the balancey traverse line of Eliminate, followed by Andy who then led Christeena, followed by Ben and Clay.
Dave led Bird Chimney and Rambling Route with Andy Shaw following - back on the rock after a 25 year hiatus!
We didn't fancy a head torch session so we nipped into the Wilton Arms - Ben proposed New Mills 'I'm working next door''. Dave proposed Hobson Moor.
Inexplicably Ben voted for Hobson Moor as did the rest of us!
Hobson Moor Quarry
Wed 24th Sep, 2014
Maybe the final outdoor meet of the season......until we go aid climbing in some cold dark caves
Members: Emily Pitts, Meirion Tanner, Dave Wylie
Guests: George Williams, Bron Edwards, Ben Slater, Matt Harrigan, Jools
Stuff was done. Dave decided to do his last lead in the dark. George took his first lead fall gaining a view of the quarry upside down and walking away with just a scratch. Ben 'well enjoyed' Foghorn Groove. Bron did a great deal of scuttling up on the end of most ropes, with style and grace. Emily amused herself by throwing carabiners off the crag at everyone, whilst practising for the forthcoming SPA assessment ('fail', they screamed). Jules did a great job of leading crew's route and foghorn groove. Matt arrived to climb in the dark with a head torch. John arrived in time for drinks at the pub.
And so to next week....
A unanimous decision was taken to go outdoors next week, Hobson Moor again. In the event of poor weather we will go to Stockport awesome walls instead. Watch the scribble.
Emily
Hobson Moor Quarry
Wed 1st Oct, 2014
Repeat choice by very popular demand - if wet, indoors at Stockport wall.
(No Reports)
Back to Current !!!!
If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-
Participation Statement
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
More Evening Meets:
During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.
Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.
If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.
Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:
Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (17)Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (16)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (9)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (3)
Cadshaw Rocks (6)
Castle Naze (23)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (15)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (13)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (17)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (13)
Helsby (14)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (44)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (5)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (7)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (12)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (16)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Lower Tier (1)
Roaches Upper Tier (7)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (9)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (18)
Shining Clough Rocks (6)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage North (2)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (3)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (7)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (33)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (19)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (9)
Windgather (22)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (18)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Climbing Walls Used:
Manchester Climbing Centre (118)Marple Rope Race (3)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (181)
The Depot: Manchester (70)
Warrington North Face (3)
Other Evening Meets (126)
Lancs online guidebook
