Evening Meets at Cadshaw Rocks
Wed 22nd May, 2019
Members: Dan O’Brien, Tim Howarth, Koy Oi Ding, Mark Ashley
Guests: Fergal McCullough, John Smallwood, Mark Rothwell
Lancashire was sunny but cool and the KMC made the most of these fairly optimal conditions. A stack of routes were climbed across the whole crag.
Dan, followed by Tim and Fergal, climbed Column Climb (S), Overhanging Crack (VD), Druid’s Corner (VD) and The Slab (VD) after Tim aborted due to the lack of gear and slopey holds. Dan also didn’t find any gear but was happier to run it out – VD felt harsh. Tim Led Column Climb (D) which was different in character from most of the other routes in that it had both gear and holds. Dan and Fergal followed.
Mark and John climbed Druid’s corner, Overhanging Crack, Split Block Crack (HS) and The Mantleshelf (S). The latter was described on UKC as "a little on the delicate side, so take care or better still pick another route” which seems a little mean as the main problem seemed to be John retrieving a well stuck wire whilst following!
Mark and Ding climbed Corner Chimney (D), Overhanging Crack, Oak Tree Chimney (VD) and “something else down the far end of the crag that I didn’t write down and forgot to ask about… Sorry.
As the midges descended we decamped to a local drinking establishment for a debrief before heading for home. A lovely evening.Daniel O'Brien
Wed 6th Jun, 2018
Natural Lancashire gritstone with plenty of well protected routes
Members: Elliott Brown, Clay Conlon, Isabel Prause, Dave Wylie, Ben Slater, Mark Ashley,
Guests: Matt Mitchell, Adam McCudden, Jed Farmer, John Smallwoood, Erfan Khatibi and a lovely full set of tricams.
Adam, Jed and Isabel were top roping Druid's Direct (E3 6a) as I arrived at the crag, seemed to have a very slippery start. Clay and myself went off to explore the quarry just before the crag and found a nice long route, Green Slab (VS 4c**) to be had. Ben and Dave teamed up, with Matt joining up for a climb or two, which inclded Pagan Wall (S 4a) and Split Block Crack (HS 4b*). John and Isabel teamed up on various routes to top rope, Pagan's Direct (HVS 5b**) being one of them I believe. Adam and Jed, Mark and Erfan looked to have climbed routes between The Staircase and West Slab Direct.
Towards the end of the evening we were viciously attacked by midges (M7), which caused a hurried retreat back to the cars. All the while, trying to take name and work out what climbs were being gestured at for the report. The next meet was hurriely suggested as Witches Quarry, which seemed to please those retreating from the crag (M10 at this point).
Routes that were defninitly (maybe) climbed by names above:
Central Chimney (VD), The Staircase (M), Split Block Crack (HS 4b*), Central Crack (VD*), Overhand Crack (VD*), Pagan Wall (S 4a), Pagan's Direct (HVS 5b**), Central Wall (HS 4b**)Elliott Brown
Wed 27th Apr, 2016
Gritstone cragging off the Devil's Road...
Members: Dan O'Brien, Gareth Williams, Stevie Graham, Andy Stratford, James Meakin, Clay Conlon
Guests: John Evans, Fiona Dixon, Isabel Prause, Jo Cowley, Duncan Zerafa.
The last time your correspondent visited Cadshaw Rocks was literally half-a-lifetime ago. My 16-year-old self (without a car obviously) was forced to get the train and hike from Entwistle and my only real memories of the day were getting an ass-kicking trying to stand on a sloping ledge and then getting rained off and heading to the pub. Despite a flurry of snow in the afternoon the KMC arrived at the crag in clear cool conditions.
Which lasted about five-minutes.
Before we could even get our harnesses on, a wall of hail and snow swept in from the west and settled on us. Even Andy’s prediction that “hailstones won’t wet the rock as they just roll-off” was proved false. He later clarified that only “dry hailstones” roll off the rock. Frozen Carbon-Dioxide I assume… rare in Lancashire…
As the hail and snow eased the team split up in search of dry rock. In the early stages there was not much of this about but that did not stop Steve, dogged in his enthusiasm climbed Crack and Wall (S) followed by Andy and Duncan (on his first outdoor climb since the Ben in January!). He also climbed Column Climb (D) and Central Crack (VD) again followed by Duncan. Andy climbed Column Climb followed by Clay and Jo. He and Jo then followed Clay up a hybrid of Pagan Wall (S) and Corner Chimney (D). John led Overhang Crack (VD) followed by Fiona, who then led a mixture of East Face Climb and Column Climb.
Gareth led a very we Central Climb (HS) fwhich despite not really having anything to recommend it somehow gets 2-stars in Rockfax… As the rock dried out Dan attempted Druids Face (E2). After struggling on the first half, necessarily eliminating most of the good holds to avoid the extreme polish, Dan reached the half-height gear but was unable to muster the moral fibre to go more than one move higher. One for another day perhaps. James, climbing with two colleagues whose names your correspondent failed to record, “made a hash of Overhanging Crack and Split Block Crack”. I suppose one is often ones own harshest critic! As the light faded the snow returned (seriously, it’s late April! I got snowed on three times today?!) and the team departed for The Chetham Arms in Chapeltown.
In the pub, armed with some gourmet pork scratchings, the nominations were Alderman, Deeply Vale, Anglezarke and Windgather. In the first round, Windgather was clearly in front with the remaining crags all tied. So began a series of negative votes which resulted, much to your correspondents confusion, in the elimination of Deeply Vale. In the second round, mercifully, Anglezarke was eliminated without requiring any shenanigans leaving Windgather and Alderman in the run-off. Windgather prevailed so its Whalley Bridge next week for some of the friendliest gritstone in the Peak District. Always a popular choice and one not to miss. Assuming we don’t have to approach on skis…Daniel O'Brien
Wed 21st Aug, 2013
Quite polished but plenty of easy routes Diff to HS, and a classic E2.
Members: Dave Wylie, Andy Stratford, Emily Pitts, Nick Adamson, Mark Ashley, Laura Collier
Guests: Stuart Hurworth, Jasmine Pitts, Michaela Schaeller, Helen Boothman
Special side access panels in the adidas test jacket allowed harder climbing meanwhile the man with one shoe still managed overhangs. Druids and Pagans repelled all borders. Wee beasties appeared along with headtorches and a moonlit walk out.
In the Cross Guns Castle Naze was a clear winner over Pots and Pans...so back to the south next week.
Wed 13th Sep, 2006
Another fine evening on the rock. Dave Wylie, Roger Daley, Karen Kennedy and Al Metelko turned out to this small, but perfectly formed, crag. Dave arrived early and soloed about half a dozen easy (up to V-Diff) routes before the others arrived. Al also did loads of soloing. Roger and Dave and Karen roped up to do a trio of severes. The routes included: "The Staircase" (Mod) "Pagan Wall" (Severe, 4a) "Corner Chimney" (Diff) "Crack and Wall" (Severe, 4a) "Oak Tree Chimney" (V-Diff) "Split Block Climb" (Severe, 4a) "Curving Crack" (Diff) "East Chimney" (Mod) "West Buttress - Ordinary" (Diff) The rock was dry, perhaps a little polished in places but that wasn't a big problem. A few of the other routes had a some suspect rock or vegetation near the top, but these could always be gardened or avoided! All in all, an excellent little crag.
Wed 13th Aug, 2003
Back to Current !!!!
If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
More Evening Meets:
During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.
Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.
Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (14)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (14)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (6)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Cadshaw Rocks (6)
Castle Naze (18)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (13)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (12)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (13)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (10)
Hen Cloud (2)
Hobson Moor Quarry (41)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (4)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (4)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (10)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (14)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Upper Tier (4)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (5)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (16)
Shining Clough Rocks (4)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (1)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (6)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (27)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (17)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (7)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (16)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Climbing Walls Used:Manchester Climbing Centre (108)
Marple Rope Race (1)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (110)
The Depot: Manchester (12)
Warrington North Face (3)
Other Evening Meets (9)
Lancs online guidebook