Evening Meets (2022)
Depot bouldering
Thu 13th Jan, 2022
This winter the KMC will be meeting indoors on Mondays and Thursdays every week. Both evenings will be from about 6.30pm but do feel free to arrive earlier to do your own thing and warm up or meet others, and turning up later is not a problem either, it is very much a drop in. For details for each night see the relevant date and below. Prospective members and new enquirers are welcome. You can register as a ‘’Prospective Member’’ using the web form on the ‘’Join KMC’’ page of the website.
Club members don’t engage in formal tuition or competency courses for complete novices so please get yourself ‘’signed off’’ at the relevant wall for any roped climbing, belaying or bouldering.
Recovered from Monday? Good! Practice your pebble wrestling skills, technique, balance, problem solving and a really nice social atmosphere. Challenge yourself or just have fun at the Depot, Trafford Park on Thursday evenings. Parking is a challenge with the new double yellows and private enforcement. Consider parking a few minutes walk away on Textilose Road
Regular KMC Host(s): Steve Lopacki
Troy Quarry
Wed 11th May, 2022
Troy Quarry – Wednesday 11th May 2022
Attendees
Liam Brady, Dave Wylie, Jack Buczko, Daniel Arrowsmith, Mark Rothwell, Rory Marsden
Wednesday, 07.36. Raining. Outlook, climbing today seems unlikely.
Wednesday, 12.22. Absolutely chucking it down. Radio silence, looks like nobody fancies it.
Wednesday, 14:50. Andy S says it is dry at the crag but he can’t make it. hmmm.
Wednesday, 15:48. Jack says he is going. Boom, game on!
It was my first visit to Troy Quarry and initially looked like a remarkably popular venue thanks to the pupils on a climbing trip with a Bolton school (the wrong one according to Dave). Thanks to their boyish good looks it was tricky to spot Dave and Liam among the crowd but they made themselves known and then we were three. Noting that we had neglected to make an exclusive booking for the crag led us to the first philosophical question of the meet; is a quarry a crag?
With top ropes spread across the middle of the west face Liam took a line off to the right and got us started with Mucky Pups, VS 4c. Dave and I followed and before we had finished Jack and Daniel had arrived in time to get a rope on the route as well giving Liam a lead with four seconds. Just as well the sun was now shining in Lancashire!
Dave and I decided to get another route started, with me leading One Way Street, S 4a. By the time we were established on the route the school group were packing up, Mark (aka Bob) had arrived and we could split into three pairs to divide and conquer. Dan and Jack took on Cracked Wall, VS 4c with Dan taking the time to explore all of the route options. Liam and Bob meantime decided on a hybrid route combining Gopher, VS 4c, and Helen of Troy, VS 5a.
Next Dave decided to lead Left Siamese Twin, S 4a, raising the potentially thorny question of whether this is a politically incorrect route name. After agreeing that this matter was best left alone there was no further discussion of politically correct route names or twins, Siamese or otherwise.
With the place (is it a crag?) to ourselves and the evening sunshine beaming down the crew got stuck into the routes. Mark led Last Arete Left, VS 4c. Jack led Right Politically Correct Twin, S 4a. I led Overlooked Crack, HS 4b. Liam led a currently name unknown eliminate, HVS 5a. Mark led Troy Groove, VS 4b, and Dave led Stacked Deck, HS 4b.
With the sun getting low in the sky Dan and Jack decided there was still time for one last route and picked Bob the Gob, HVS 5a. As they started up the route there was an unrelated conversation about whether sandbag is written as one word or two.
Sandbag
/ˈsan(d)baɡ/
noun
noun: sandbag; plural noun: sandbags
a bag filled with sand, typically used for defensive purposes or as ballast in a boat.
verb
- barricade using sandbags. "we had to sandbag the doors"
- hit or knock over with or as if with a blow from a sandbag. "he is a complex character who too often finds himself sandbagged by his own self-destructive tendencies"
With a fine display of traditional, modern and rarely observed gritstone techniques both Dan and Jack managed to overcome their self-destructive tendencies to get the better of Bob the Gob and brought the evening’s climbing to a close. A short walk down the hill in the moonlight and we were all soon back at the cars and on our way home. All in all a very enjoyable and worthwhile meet in spite of the inauspicious start to the day. Thanks to all who attended.
Rory Marsden
Stanage Crow Chin
Wed 25th May, 2022
Stanage North, Crow Chin – Wednesday 25th May 2022
Attendees: David Rainsbury, Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Brian Tarnowski, Caroline Gay, Steve Lopacki, Mich Harrison, James Davis, William Cullum, Rory Marsden
As promised the sun was shining, briefly. It was also raining briefly, but that didn’t matter because it was so windy that the rock was still drying faster than it was getting wet. The seemingly hurricane force wind was keeping the midgies down wonderfully and the general weather outlook seemed to have kept all other climbers at home. And so on the one day of the year when we had the whole of Stanage Edge to ourselves and could have climbed on any section in absolute tranquillity ten of us trekked out to one of the most remote parts, Crow Chin.
The combination of the remote position and the wind (did I mention it was windy?) really added a wildness to the climbing. The risk of being blown over making the delicate, balanced moves slightly harrowing and the continuous buffeting and wind noise making it hard to focus. It all added to the challenge and either everyone was enjoying it or had to keep climbing to stay warm because a remarkable number of routes got ticked as follows:
Andy & Jim
October Slab, HS 4b, led by Andy
Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by Jim
Spring Sunshine , VS 4c Led by Andy
Big Al, HVS 5a, led by Andy
Bright Eyed, HS 4b, led by Jim
X-ray, HS 4b, led by Jim (Cosmic Crack area)
Andy, Jim & Mich
Kelly's Eye, HS 4b, led by Jim
James & William
Kelly’s Crack, VD, led by James
Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by James
X-Ray, HS 4b, led by James (Cosmic Crack area)
Mich & Steve
Bright Eyed, HS 4b, led by Mich
Spring Sunshine, VS 4c, led by Steve
Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by Mich
Feathered Friends, VS 4c, led by Steve
Cosmic Crack, VS 4c, led by Mich (Cosmic Crack area)
Brian & Caroline
October Crack, Diff, led by Brian
Kelly’s Crack, VDiff, led by Brian
David & Rory
Bent Crack, HVD, led by David
Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by Rory
Kelly’s Crack, VD, led by David
Steve, David & Rory
October Slab, HS 4b, led by Steve
David & Caroline
Bow Crack, VD, led by David (Twin Buttress area)
Meson, VD 4b, led by David (Meson area)
Jam Good, VD, led by David (Puss area)
Beanpod, S 4a, led by David (Cosmic Crack area)
Brian & Rory
Bent Crack, HVD, led by Rory
New Year’s Eve, S 4b, led by Rory
Bow Crack, VD, led by Brian (Twin Buttress area)
Eckhard’s Chimney, VD, led by Rory (High Neb)
As the evening progressed there was some exploration of other sections of Stanage North with routes climbed on six areas in total. Climbing was wrapped up by around 9pm and we were all back to the cars before it was dark. Another great evening with the KMC making the most of every opportunity to get out on the rock.
Thanks to David and Andy for a great venue suggestion. David had told me on the walk in that he had not visited Crow Chin in a “long time” so must have been having some sense of déjà vu prior to Andy remining him that they had climbed there in October last year!
Apologies again to James and William who asked for a pin drop on Google maps to locate the rest of the team. You arrived before I saw the message so I guess you figured it out!
Well done to Brian for some great routes on only his second session of leading.
Thanks to everyone who made it out. See you all again soon.
Cheers,
Rory.
Rory Marsden
Burbage Edge
Wed 22nd Jun, 2022
Burbage South – Wednesday 22nd June 2022
Attendees
Daniel Arrowsmith, Rob Clark, Caroline Gay, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Brian Tarnowski, Holly Warder, Gareth Williams
On Peak Rock describes Burbage South’s specialities as “Many appealing, some appalling, problems. One of the Peak’s seed beds for technical virtuosity… Home for the committed (in all three senses) enthusiasts, but never overcrowded.”
And so on a beautiful June evening the committed enthusiasts of KMC gathered to hone their skills. As one of the few who had climbed previously at Burbage South Rob suggested we start at the Drainpipe and from there the following ascents were recorded:
Holly & Caroline
Rombald’s Staircase, Mod, led by Caroline
Chimney Route, VD, led by Holly
Ladder Gully, Diff, led by Caroline
Rob, Rory, Gareth & Brian
Drainpipe, HS 4b, led by Rob
Rob & Brian
Gable Route, VS 4c, led by Rob
The Gutter, HVS 5b, led by Rob
Gareth & Rory
The Staircase, S 4a, led by Rory
No Zag, E1 5b, led by Gareth
Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Rory
Tower Crack, HVS 5a, led by Gareth
Daniel & Fergal
Roof Route, VS 4c, led by Daniel
Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Daniel
Unfortunately meet leader duties were poorly conducted and so the above list is only partially complete. Sorry. While there were no first ascents Caroline and Holly have officially defined the new climbing technique of “ooudgelling”.
After an evening of some excellent climbing we walked back across the moor left only to wonder what are the three senses of committed? Who are you calling crazy??
Committed
/kəˈmɪtɪd/
adjective
- pledged or bound to a certain course; dedicated
- in or denoting a long-term emotional relationship
Thanks to all who attended.
Rory MarsdenMillstone Edge
Tue 28th Jun, 2022
Attendees; Robert Clark, Brian Tarnowski, Holly Warder.
It wasnt a superb sunny evening like the previous two mid week meets, but it was dry, and a stiff breeze kept the midges away. It was quite a busy Millstone Quarry evening, with a few other teams around the Embankment Area, including a climber cruising London Wall; She paused on the top section, quite a way above her last protection, and turned round to chat merrily to her belayer, before strolling to the top.
We climbed a varied selection of routes; Hells Bells (HS 4b), Midrift (VD), Giants Steps (D), Whitehall (HVS 5b), The Mall (VS 4c), Chiming Cracks (HS 4b).
Robert Clark
Dovestones
Wed 6th Jul, 2022
Dovestones Edge – Wednesday 6th July 2022
Attendees
Jack Buczko, Jim Symon, Ben Jones, Rory Marsden
Nearly Daniel Arrowsmith
It felt like rain was coming. Still, Jim, Ben and I headed up to Dovestones Edge from Binn Green in good spirits. We arrived to find the crag a bit green but not to be deterred Jim headed up Central Tower shortly followed by Ben who bagged his first outdoor route wearing my rock boots which were a good size too big. I followed up as well and the first route was done.
Jack arrived, having walked up from the reservoir car park, and belayed for me on Answer Crack which was becoming increasingly tricky as the drizzle started and rapidly progressed to full on rain. I splashed my way to the top and Jack followed up before Ben gave it a fine effort only to be defeated by the increasing slipperiness. Jim waded in and managed to fish the gear out on his way to the top.
That left us with just the soggy walk back to the car. In spite of having two of the possible approach paths occupied somehow we still managed to miss Daniel who walked up to find he had missed everyone. Sorry pal!
Rory MarsdenNew Mills Tors
Wed 28th Sep, 2022
New Mills Torrs – Wednesday 28th September 2022
Attendees
Fergal McCullough, Lorenzo D’Aguilar, Rory Marsden
After trying a few of the boulder problems to warm up Fergal arrived and we got roped up. We climbed The Overlooked Groove. Then Lorenzo arrived and we climbed Cracked Corner. It was getting dark but we tried to squeeze in another route on the floodlit bridge pillar but as none of us could figure out which was supposed to be the easiest of the routes we admitted defeat and packed up. A short but sweet finale to the midweek outdoor meets for 2022.
Rory MarsdenBack to Current !!!!
If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-
Participation Statement
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
More Evening Meets:
During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.
Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.
If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.
Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:
Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (17)Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (16)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (9)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (3)
Cadshaw Rocks (6)
Castle Naze (22)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (15)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (13)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (17)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (12)
Helsby (14)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (44)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (5)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (7)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (12)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (16)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Lower Tier (1)
Roaches Upper Tier (6)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (9)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (18)
Shining Clough Rocks (6)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage North (2)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (3)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (7)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (32)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (19)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (9)
Windgather (23)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (18)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Climbing Walls Used:
Manchester Climbing Centre (118)Marple Rope Race (3)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (180)
The Depot: Manchester (70)
Warrington North Face (3)
Other Evening Meets (117)
Lancs online guidebook
