Stanage - High Neb

Wed 5th Jul, 2023

Members: Andy Stratford and Fergal McCollough

Prospective member: Niamh Barry

The numerous weather forecasts obtained by the long list of potential attendees caused a debate about attending..... There was cause for both optimism and pessimism and whilst most decided to go with pessimism and headed for the indoor wall, I kept the faith and willed the rain gods to give us a break.....

After collecting Niamh from Hathersage station we arrived at a dry, breezy, midge-free High Neb. I set about a lead of Tango Buttress (HS 5a) which Niamh followed with ease. Cave Buttress Direct was next - a superb 2-star S4b with a crux start an exciting traverse and a steep exposed finish all of which required some smart ropework which Niamh led in good style. I decided on the jamming fest of Erics Eliminate S4a next and Fergal arrived and tied on. ''I  hate Jamming'' he declared at the top.... ''well why are you at Stanage with me then?''.....

Niamh had her eye on the superb 2-star Inaccessible Crack VS 4c - more jamming practice for Fergal (I reckon she did it deliberately!).... again, a confident lead, considering she doesn't own her own rack and borrowed mine!.

Just as we topped out we got a sharp shower - it was 8.15 pm, we'd managed four excellent routes, so we went home feeling the weather gamble had paid off. 

Stanage Crow Chin

Wed 25th May, 2022

Stanage North, Crow Chin – Wednesday 25^th May 2022

Attendees: David Rainsbury, Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Brian Tarnowski, Caroline Gay, Steve Lopacki, Mich Harrison, James Davis, William Cullum, Rory Marsden

As promised the sun was shining, briefly. It was also raining briefly, but that didn’t matter because it was so windy that the rock was still drying faster than it was getting wet. The seemingly hurricane force wind was keeping the midgies down wonderfully and the general weather outlook seemed to have kept all other climbers at home. And so on the one day of the year when we had the whole of Stanage Edge to ourselves and could have climbed on any section in absolute tranquillity ten of us trekked out to one of the most remote parts, Crow Chin.

The combination of the remote position and the wind (did I mention it was windy?) really added a wildness to the climbing. The risk of being blown over making the delicate, balanced moves slightly harrowing and the continuous buffeting and wind noise making it hard to focus. It all added to the challenge and either everyone was enjoying it or had to keep climbing to stay warm because a remarkable number of routes got ticked as follows:

Andy & Jim

October Slab, HS 4b, led by Andy

Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by Jim

Spring Sunshine , VS 4c Led by Andy

Big Al, HVS 5a, led by Andy

Bright Eyed, HS 4b, led by Jim

X-ray, HS 4b, led by Jim (Cosmic Crack area)

Andy, Jim & Mich

Kelly's Eye, HS 4b, led by Jim

James & William

Kelly’s Crack, VD, led by James

Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by James

X-Ray, HS 4b, led by James (Cosmic Crack area)

Mich & Steve

Bright Eyed, HS 4b, led by Mich

Spring Sunshine, VS 4c, led by Steve

Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by Mich

Feathered Friends, VS 4c, led by Steve

Cosmic Crack, VS 4c, led by Mich (Cosmic Crack area)

Brian & Caroline

October Crack, Diff, led by Brian

Kelly’s Crack, VDiff, led by Brian

David & Rory

Bent Crack, HVD, led by David

Autumn Gold, HS 4a, led by Rory

Kelly’s Crack, VD, led by David

Steve, David & Rory

October Slab, HS 4b, led by Steve

David & Caroline

Bow Crack, VD, led by David (Twin Buttress area)

Meson, VD 4b, led by David (Meson area)

Jam Good, VD, led by David (Puss area)

Beanpod, S 4a, led by David (Cosmic Crack area)

Brian & Rory

Bent Crack, HVD, led by Rory

New Year’s Eve, S 4b, led by Rory

Bow Crack, VD, led by Brian (Twin Buttress area)

Eckhard’s Chimney, VD, led by Rory (High Neb)

As the evening progressed there was some exploration of other sections of Stanage North with routes climbed on six areas in total. Climbing was wrapped up by around 9pm and we were all back to the cars before it was dark. Another great evening with the KMC making the most of every opportunity to get out on the rock.

Thanks to David and Andy for a great venue suggestion. David had told me on the walk in that he had not visited Crow Chin in a “long time” so must have been having some sense of déjà vu prior to Andy remining him that they had climbed there in October last year!

Apologies again to James and William who asked for a pin drop on Google maps to locate the rest of the team. You arrived before I saw the message so I guess you figured it out!

Well done to Brian for some great routes on only his second session of leading.

Thanks to everyone who made it out. See you all again soon.

Cheers,

Rory.