Evening Meets - Other
Winter scrambling series
Wed 18th Mar, 2026
Attendance: Jess Bailey, Kosta Belajevs (Associate Member), Jess Pealing, Harry Potts, Sam Rodger (Prospective Member), Gareth Williams.
It had been a beautiful day, Kosta finished work early and went for a walk encircling Winnats Pass and allowing him a view of Elbow Ridge from all angles. By the time the full team arrived at 7pm, it was dark and the crowds had all disappeared. This was quite deliberate, for the BMC advises mid-week ascents of Elbow Ridge either late or early, to minimise the risk of drawing large crowds etc.
After a quick chat we all felt happy to tackle Elbow Ridge unroped, though we decided to put our harnesses on at the bottom of the scramble just in case we felt the need for a rope higher up. Everyone moved smoothly and safely and we were soon at the top, everyone saying they wished the route was several times longer than it actually is. The eagle-eyed among us noted plenty of crampon scratches on the route, something to remember for next winter perhaps? Within an hour of leaving the car park we were back where we started, leaving plenty of time for a visit to the Bull's Head in Castleton.
Thank you to everyone who has come to one of the three Winter Scrambling Series meets this year. Judging by the attendance it has been a big success, if you fancy suggesting/leading a scramble in when the darker evenings arrive next winter, why not offer to lead a meet?
Winter scrambling series
Wed 18th Feb, 2026
Winter scrambling was advertised, and wintry it was! Eight brave members met in Edale at 7pm, the team consisting of Tom Arthur, Harry Collins (prospective member), Joe Dugdale, Claire Hawkins, Andy Lewtas, Paul Lonsdale, Phil Mitchell and Gareth Williams (meet leader). As we gathered in a deserted car park in the dark, some light flakes of snow began to fall, casually whipped around by the gentle easterly wind that proved somewhat character building later in the evening.
We set off with headtorches merrily lighting the way, reaching the end of the road and turning uphill towards our destination of Ringing Roger. It is said that this gritstone outcrop got its name from a monk who used to run up from Edale each day to ring bells, but it was only the internet which said this, so who knows for sure. There was certainly no running up from Edale this evening, but our team made steady progress. Terrain soon became frozen underfoot and from 300m up, the snow was starting to lie on the ground.
By the time we reached the start of the scramble the wind was making itself known and we were all very well acquainted with it before long. Snow was blowing at us horizontally and collecting on all the ledges and holds. After an easy few moves we reached our first obstacle, a steep slab with a wide crack up the middle, initially some good hand holds but a rounded top-out requiring some nifty balance and boot-jamming skills. Paul was heard to say it's the most fun he's had on gritstone!
Higher up a second steep slab with cracks near the top was overcome in a variety of ways ranging from hand jamming, mantling, smearing (yes, smearing on icy gritstone in big boots), combined tactics and of course the easy option, walking around the side. One of the nice things about Ringing Roger is it's very escapable and you can avoid any bits you don't fancy.
Upon reaching the top we discovered an abandoned pop-up tent, camp pans and food. We cleared up all the mess and loaded it into/onto our sacs to carry back down. We walked a couple of hundred yards to the top of Golden Clough and managed to find a spot out of the wind in a little dip. Here we all donned metalwear on our feet, ranging from brand new day-glo microspikes and a first outing for a new pair of crampons to more seasoned equipment such as yaktrax, allowing us to negotiate the icy clough safely. We kept the spikes on quite a way down over the frozen terrain.
We got back to Edale just as The Old Nags Head was closing, the landlord assuring us that The Rambler Inn just down the road would be open. It was, and they offered us a great welcome in from the snow storm. They stoked up the fire and explained that they has over-catered for their pub quiz, could we possibly help them finish the buffet, free of charge of course. We didn't need asking twice, but we did go back for extra helpings twice. Tom displayed some impressive film music knowledge in the second half of the quiz and would probably have won a prize if we'd stayed until the end.
By the time we left the pub the snow had stopped falling, and it seemed amazing to us all that we'd been out for the exact two and a half hours that the snow had fallen. We all agreed this (and the wind!) added to the evening. Thank you to everyone who came and see you at the next one!
Gareth Williams
Winter scrambling series
Wed 7th Jan, 2026
Thirteen keen members attended the first ever Winter Scrambling Series meet: Gareth Williams (meet leader), Jess Bailey, Ed Courtnell, Will Fitzmaurice, Jared Kitchen (advance party), Paul Lonsdale, Phil Mitchell, Jess Pealing, Aaron Polley (prospective member), Harry Potts, Mark Rothwell, Andy Stratford, Mirek Steadman (advance party associate member).
Those who were able to get out a bit earlier formed an advance party, the rest of us met at the Dovestones Reservoir car park at 7pm. The walk in involved some frosty ground, icy river crossings and the odd hole that seemed to swallow feet, ankles and more. The only miscalculation was an icy river crossing, once all were safely across we found a bridge about thirty yards upstream.
Wilderness Gully wasn't in all its winter glory, but there was enough ice in it to require cramppns for a safe ascent. There was a variety of choices made for upper body contact, including zero, one or two axes. There were a few short steps with nice ice on them, and ovreall the route was just in condition to justify a winter ascent. Everyone made swift progress, ropes were carried but not needed and we were soon at the top. After walking back to the cars, the determined few made a stop at The Railway, Greenfield, for a quick drink.
Many thanks to everyone who came for an excellent turnout. Although titled "Winter Scrambling Series" I never imagined we'd be scrambling in true winter conditions, so I think we were incredibly lucky on this meet. Hope to see people on the next meet in the series, where I suspect it will be normal rock scrambling on a winter's night!
Gareth Williams
Garden Party Social
Thu 7th Aug, 2025
Social Garden Party Meet – Aug 7th
Report by: Michelle Harvie and Mark Garrod
Attendees: Robert Clark, Dave Wylie [plus nephew Peter], Jim Symon, Philippa Symon, Michelle Harvie, Kate Harvey, Pete Attwood, Daisy, Mark Garrod, Joe Dugdale, Christine Beeston, Maggie Baldock, Dave Shotton, Alan (L) Jones, Jeremy Engineer, Cathy Devine, Colin Maddison, Mary Stuart, Neil Boynton, Caro Churchill, Steve Lopacki, Sabina Cosulich, Bridget and Roger Mapleson, Sue and Craig Marsden, Caroline Gay, Ann Waters (28 members)
Hurrah – the weather was kind and it was warm enough to enjoy ourselves outdoors. No leaky roofs this time. Judging by the volume of chatter the event seemed to fulfil a need for members to catch-up with each other. We had an impressive age range in attendance, from Alan at the ‘more experienced’ end of the scale [good effort to come over from the Wirral] to Daisy at the other end, happily crawling around people’s feet on our patio, and smiling continually to all and sundry.
Thanks to everyone who came along and made the summer garden party a success, and for bringing enough food along to feed everyone [just about –even the massive Eton Mess got demolished], with a nicely varied spread.
Our collection raised £125 for St Ann’s Hospice, and they have sent their thanks to us all.
We now have to decide when the next one is – maybe in 2 years?
Mark & Michelle
Mark GarrodSecret Stanage
Wed 18th Jun, 2025
In attendance were, Robert Clark, Colin Maddison, Andy Stratford, Daniel Arrowsmith and Tiphaine.
A select few turned up and experienced a beautiful crag on a lovely evening. The breeze kept the midge away (until perhaps 9.30), and a fair few climbs were done. The crag here is less polished than more popular parts of the edge, the paths a bit less obvious, it has a more isolated feel, and the outlook on an summer evening is fine. Its a secret, so don't tell too many of your friends.
Climbs; Titanic (vs 4c), Q.E.2 (vs 4c), Gnat's Slab Arete (HS 4c), Gnat's Slab (D), Lusitania (S), Anniversary Arete (E1 5b), Parallel Cracks (vs 4b), Persuader (vs 4c), Broken Buttress (VD).
Robert ClarkFroggatt
Wed 11th Jun, 2025
Froggatt Edge Meet report 11th June 2025
Present: Tommy, Lynne, Colin, Robert, Becca, Mirek, Harry, Andy S
They say don’t meet your heroes. But if I’d never met Robert Clark, I might never have known he was my climbing hero. So, imagine my delight when none other than Robert was the first to meet me at Froggatt, one stinking hot Wednesday in June.
It was a textbook walk on to the crag with KMC veterans, with Robert talking us through the merits of each route we passed (“that one’s a nice route”) and Lynne providing the cultural commentary, including which routes she had and hadn’t climbed on her last documented trip to Froggatt in 1991 and why her recent trip to Arran had ended her mountaineering career.
Lynne kicked us off with sunset slab (HS) (last done in 1991). Whilst racking up both her gear and all possible excuses, one of the bunch of old boy climbers next to us chimed in to correct one of Lynne's excuses, telling her the idea of it being too hot for the rock to not be grippy had no scientific basis, quoting scientific journals that had proved rubber was grippier when hot.
“But what about our sweaty little mits?” Lynne asked. “… Just think about how they warm up f1 tyres before a race!” one of his mates replied. It was settled then. Conditions were as grippy as could be and Lynne would just have to climb sunset slab, without excuses and with only her gear for company.
After sunset slab, none other than Lynne’s climbing partner from 1991 (Colin Maddison) emerged out of the summer haze. They teamed up to continue Lynne’s trip down memory lane, which left me alone with my climbing idol.
I followed Robert down the crag to “one down there I haven’t done” (Bollard crack VS). He sprinkled himself in pixie dust and pranced up the slab, swam up the crack and floated over the bulge to the top. “That’s how you do it”, I thought. Sadly, my pixie dust wasn’t working quite so well. But I did make it up after him. Eventually.
Becca was the next to emerge from the bracken jungle, and kindly joined us to stop Robert wearing me out quite so badly.
Earlier in the spring, I’d trialled “climbing like Robert” with my quickdraws clipped onto a sling over my shoulder, like a bandolier. But today I’d go one better. I’d forgotten my helmet and Robert would lend me his for me to lead a route. Inspiration followed and it was time for my second ever VS. And before I knew it, I was channelling my inner Robert, swinging a leg over the crux of Trapeze Direct VS 4c and topping out.
“How was that?” Becca asked from the bottom. Quick - think Tommy… What would Robert say??
“Yeah it was alright”, I called down.
Afterwards we joined the pilgrimage of KMCers in the shade of Green Gut HS (put up by former KMC club member, Nat Allen), just after Lynne had led it.. Harry and Andy Stratford then arrived. “Whose idea was it leading a meet in this heat?”
And soon Jess also announced her arrival from round the corner.
“Jesus! I’m sweating my tits off!”
“Hi Jess.”
The shade of Green gut meant it was then also led by Harry and then by Jess. While Robert made us watch from underneath the sun-baked roof of pedestal crack (HVS 5a) next door.
I was sorry to make hard work of Congestion crack (HS) in front of Robert. But I should have known he'd have me covered.
“Some holds have probably come off… more like VS”
“Thanks Robert.”
Jess was also struggling in the extremely grippy conditions, as she was forced to back off a route “for the third time that week.” she said “And it’s only Wednesday.”
Colin headed home and Lynne joined us for more nostalgia as Robert climbed one of his favourites, Diamond crack (HS), not once but twice! (Once on lead with Becca following and once on second, giving me the chance to lead.)
The exertions of the day began to tell when I was at the top of the route and I had to be reminded by Robert to place more gear and not just push on. And it was only with an Adam Ondra scream/dying dog yelp, I managed to heave myself over the final move. Robert emerged over the lip what seemed like seconds later.
“Ooo climbing diamond crack twice in a day. What a treat!”
I was absolutely done.
“Okay me and Lynne are heading off” Robert said.
I was saved.
“Oh. You don’t fancy one more Robert?”
“No best be going.”
Climbed me under the table then even came up with an excuse for me to stop without losing face. What a legend.
“Seeya Robert.”
Fortunately, they’d not left before Lynne was able to offer Andy S some moral support after he’d cramped up in the throes of three pebble slab (HVS). Which he then swapped for the dizzying highs of vanquishing Tody’s wall (HVS 5a). And as the sun set over Froggatt, we closed out a fine day by Becca leading Slab Recess (Diff).
I walked back to the car, following the edge north and weaving groggily between the abandoned millstones. The sky was streaked orange and pink above the green fields of the peak and swifts nipped between the trees picking off insects before nightfall. I wondered if Robert was as tired as I was right now. Then decided I’d rather not know.
Tommy HarrissonBurbage North
Wed 21st May, 2025
Attendees: Jess Bailey, Robert Clark, Mich Harrison, Will Fitzmaurice, Jake Fletcher, Steve Lopacki, Josh Luhr, Colin Maddison, Rory Marsden, Jess Pealing, Andy Stratford.
So is Burbage North the best evening crag in the Peak District?
This was neither confirmed nor denied by this meet’s attendees, however everyone did seem to be having a good time. The sun was shining. Serious consideration was given to whether it was “too hot” to climb and therefore the meet location should be revised to a convenient beer garden. In the end climbing prevailed and the hardy members of KMC decided to tough it out in the harsh conditions, with the proviso that Beer O’clock would be called at the first sign of a midge!
Although designated as an evening meet, the breakfast club of Mich, Jess P, Andy, Colin, Robert and Jake had all arrived by early afternoon. Mich and Jess climbed Still Orange (S 4a), Bilberry Arete (S 4a) and Falstaff’s Innominate (S 4a) before being joined by Robert for Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b) and The Big Chimney (HVD or HS 4a depending on your guidebook). The general consensus seemed to be that Hard Severe is about right for The Big Chimney. A worthwhile route but a challenge for any V Diff leader.
Jess and Mich decided it was time for refreshments so Robert teamed up with Jake for a round of some crag classics. Alternating leads Jake then Rob on, Knights Move (HVS 5a), Great Crack (VS 5a), Greeny Crack (VS 4b) and Brooks Layback (HS 4b) also with Josh.
Andy and Colin had been seeking out shade in the trees wherever possible. Andy led Greeny Crack (VS 4b), Brooks Layback (HS 4b) and Submission (VS 5a), while Colin led Amazon Crack (HS 4b) and Big Chimney Arete (HS 4a).
Andy also manged to fit in climbs with Jess B leading Still Orange (S 4a) and Will leading Hollyash Crack (VS 4b),
Steve and I had arrived “late” (4pm) so only had time for, Knights Move (HVS 5a), Great Crack (VS 5a), Hollyash Crack (VS 4b) with a big cam, and Big Chimney Arete (HS 4a). Having had a rest on my first attempt at Knights Move I then went for a much more enjoyable, and cooler, second go with Jess B this time on second.
The routes at Burbage North really are fantastic. Every route was thoroughly enjoyed with Greeny Crack and Great Crack (what a move into the layback) getting a lot of love. There was also a lot of love from those leading Hollyash Crack for the big green Black Diamond cam and the irresistible urge to get intimate with the crag.
In spite of 8 previous visits to the crag and having logged over 50 routes there, Andy led four routes that he had not climbed previously, Greeny Crack, Brooks Layback (how had you not done this before Andy?), The Artist and Submission. This was a great topic for conversation in the pub. Do we just climb the same classic routes at each crag? Are the less travelled routes just as worthwhile? Are there any crags (not Windgather) where collectively the KMC have climbed all the routes?
Sadly there wasn’t enough time or beer to come up with the answers so we’ll have to do it all again next week.
Rory MarsdenDovestones Edge
Wed 14th May, 2025
Members: Andy Stratford, Nils Elgar, Jim Symon, Danny Arrowsmith, Becca Gardner, Kim Keegan, Tommy Harrisson, Josh Lehr
Prospective members: Will Fitzmaurice, Dan Irons, Kevin Grejewski, Ben Jones
An evening at Dovestones Edge in prime condition: a cooling breeze and sunshine from a cloudless blue sky onto rock which hasn’t seen rain in weeks. The classic routes were all in prime condition – notable ascents included Noddy’s Wall which with a tricky high crux with less gear than you’d like was a good effort for Tommys first at VS – the moorland grit was less scrittly than usual (also Tommy’s favourite new word of the day!).
Danny soloed a few easy routes then, keen to get on a rope fancied Left Embrasure (VS 4b) but appeared to have forgotten something – his harness! There were some mutterings about bowlines and the old days, but in the end, a bit of harness swapping resulted in Tommy, Andy and Danny all getting on the route with two harnesses between them.
The meet leader also received a complaint from one of the Kiwi’s present (Josh) that ‘’its too sunny’’ – OK Josh – for as long as you come back here for the rest of your days you’ll probably only ever see rain, mist and midges, and you won’t have to put up with that awful sunshine ever again.
A great evening and a drink in the King William for a few of us in Greenfield on the way home.
Andy Stratford
Hobson moor
Wed 7th May, 2025
Good weather and good times had been promised for Hobson Moor, and the crag didn't disappoint. Almost 20 KMC members (full/associate/prospective/canine) plus a few friends from the Rucksack Club (an unofficial splinter group from their Club's Wednesday evening meet) came along for an evening of sunshine, good company, good climbing and a pleasant pint in the Wagon and Horses afterwards.
A wide range of routes were climbed, I am sure to have missed some but there were teams on Pocket Wall VDiff, Epitaph Corner HS, Foghorn Groove VS, Crew's Route VS, Parker's Eliminate HVS, Bring me Sunshine E1, Gideon HVS, Evening Ridge S, The Harp HS, plus some top-rope efforts on Gable End (E5).
Cake was provided by Lucie, not quite enough to go around everyone although I'm not sure if that's because the turnout was so high or because Jim came back for seconds so many times?
Thanks to everyone for coming and thanks to some of the Hobby old-timers for pointing people at appropriate routes and bringing up multiple seconds. Apologies to anyone I've missed from the list and to those whose surnames I didn't catch.
Attendance:
Daniel Arrowsmith
Jess Bailey
Rob Clarke
Ellen
Paul Evans
Will Fitzmaurice
Rebecca Gardner
Michelle Harrison
Tommy Harrison
Claire Hawkins
Stuart Hurworth
Jake
Josh
Steve Lopaki
Olly
Jim Symon
Matt Wasilewski
Gareth Williams (meet leader)
Lucie Williams and Henry the Dog
Dave Wylie
Gareth Williams
Pule Hill
Wed 9th Apr, 2025
Members: Andy Stratford, Dan O’Brien, Andy Lewtas, Luke Cullum
Prospective Members: Kim Keegan, Will Fitzmaurice, Matt Wasilewski, Mirek Steadman, Dave Lobban
A slightly chillier evening as we drove east but light winds and low temps also meant a midge free evening at the bone dry crag.
Andy L and Luke had an adventure over on the appropriately named Bed End…’I ended up straddling the Phallus’’…said Andy, perhaps not realising that his statement would immediately be recorded in the little black book for use in this meet report. At the other end of the evening Luke was praying as he attempted Amen – yet another route at this odd little set of crags that claims to be a V Diff but is at least two grades harder. Kim made a cracking lead of Amen including a super gritstone seal flop topout.
Matt watched Kim follow Dan up the super awkward Pilot crack and seemed to nail the Beta as he made the lead look an absolute breeze – it’s no pushover – a Severe that should be a VS and it certainly felt like that as I spun off out of balance under the overhang following.
Will, myself, Andy L and Mirek all lead the awesome Flying Buttress at HS 4b and other routes that got attention included Atlas, Dusky Doddle, Apse Arete, Wackers Wall amongst a few other fine routes.
Thanks to everyone who came, a memorable evening of climbing, good company, great support and top-class banter.
Andy
Andy Stratford
Noggarth
Wed 2nd Apr, 2025
Attendees
Mark Rothwell
Robert Clark
Andy Lewtas
Daniel O 'Brien
John Warburton - Guest (Rucksack Club)
Solvig Choi - Guest (Yorkshire Ramblers)
Andrew Stratford
Rebecca Gardener
Daniel Arrowsmith
Kim Keegan
Mateusz Wasilewski
Report
Mark , Robert and John arrived about 1pm blessed with sunny weather, being joined by Soivig early PM they completed most of the routes on the Girls slab area , then moving onto the Central slab area , completing several more climbs ( Solvig leading her first HS - Fillings HS 4B) the early team were then joined firstly by Andy, closely followed by Rebecca and then the rest of the KMC team completing most of the climbs on the slab area the best being Noggin HVS 5a , a bold and thin corner crack trad line , Nogg and Garth 2 x bolted VS lines
Kim arrived later and completed 3 climbs with Mark including the Fang HVS 5a, Matt arrived even later and continued climbing when most left due to the dropping temperatures
Several members stopped off at the Sparrow hawk for a post climb drink
It was generally agreed that Noggarth crag was a welcome new early season addition to the mid week meets list - lots of route ticking at reasonable grades (Mark and Robert cmpleting some 12 + routes)
Trowbarrow
Wed 19th Jun, 2024
Trowbarrow Meet Report 19th June 2024
Members: Andy Stratford, Lewis Stonehouse, Leah Holmes, Rob Embry.
Trowbarrow quarry is a special place. It is an SSSI with lots of great plant life and trees and abounds with birds and song. But its Limestone. It’s a funny thing. Normally I actively avoid it. I seem to get on with only a few limestone venues, and this is one of them. It's not normal limestone being absolutely chocka with foraminifera fossils – and the routes on the main walls are unique in that you find yourself pulling hard on fossils to climb the steep routes!
We all wanted to climb the classic fossil fest of Jean Jeanie (VS 4c) on the main wall, but it was occupied when we arrived on a beautiful, sunny, calm evening. Rob and I set about the *** Assagai (HVS 5a) – a simple scramble up the Diff of boundary groove led to a commodious ledge and a long traverse left before tackling the steep wall to arrive at the incredible flutings at the top. It was steep climbing all the way, but with decent gear and excellent holds – it was an enjoyable lead. Like everywhere at Trowbarrow the limestone is becoming a little polished on the popular routes. Lewis made a start on the *** V Diff, Jomo then moved over to Barrier Reef S 4a with Leah following both routes.
Rob had a go at Coral Sea **(VS 4c), tossing a few random bits of gear down the crag and having a minor faff at the start (something to do with too much bouldering!) but finished in fine style. I followed up, and after we decanted to the main wall for an evening finale in the setting sun on Jean Jeanie. Lewis made a fine and steady job on lead and Leah followed gamely – with just two short falls and much effort making it to the top – a first VS and a cracking one – it's not an easy one, and at 30m it tests the arms out! Rob and I both followed up too, what a great finish at the top to the sun setting over the Lake District mountains and sea and sand in Morecambe Bay glowing in the evening light.
It was 2016 when I last visited. I won’t leave it so many years till the next time!
Andy Stratford
Burbage North
Wed 7th Jun, 2023
Attendees
Daniel Arrowsmith, Jess Bailey, Yvonne King, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Andy Stratford, Lewis Stonehouse
NORTHERN NEWS
MAN BREAKS LEG, SAVED BY PORK PIE!
“I’ve got to put you down, I’m about to pass out!” There is never a good time to hear these words from your belayer. However, the remaining three feet to the ground didn’t seem too problematic having already made an unplanned gravity assisted descent from the crux mantle of The Chant, HVS 5a, and Andy had already caught my fall. What was worrying was that Andy did look like he might pass out. Thanks to weight differential and fall dynamics Andy had been launched upwards as he arrested my fall, as expected. The collision between Andy’s leg and the underside corner of the very solid gritstone overlap was both unexpected and extremely painful. Faced with a medical emergency Andy deployed the Northern remedy, a pork pie, which worked wonders.
The Chant was our fourth route of the evening. Andy, Lewis and I had arrived early and worked through Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, Baseless, HVD, and Triangle Crack, HVD 4a to warm up.
Not ready to admit defeat I left my gear on The Chant and while Andy composed himself, I belayed Lewis on Cranberry Crack, VD. Cranberry Crack might be V Diff for those who have refined their jamming technique but is somewhat harder for those who are new to the dark arts as Lewis found out shortly before he too became airborne. Suitably revived by his pork pie Andy set about untangling the crag from our web of ropes by first finishing off Cranberry Crack with Lewis and the newly arrived Yvonne and then a very credible one-legged attempt at The Chant.
Jess and Fergal also arrived about that time and they quickly got stuck into Route 2, S 4a, and Route 3, VD 4a before progressing on to Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a. During the course of the evening Jess seemed to be conducting a group test on crack gloves, we will look forward to the write up of that!
Andy and Yvonne carried on to 20 Foot Crack, S 4b, Mutiny Crack, HS 4b, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a.
Having already ticked the trying hard box for the evening Lewis and I looked to restore some confidence. Lewis enjoyed leads of Steptoe, M, followed by …and Son, Diff, which were both dispatched with little drama. I led Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, and then we finished on Monkey Corner, HVD.
Daniel was the last to join the party and quickly set about soloing everything in sight and was soon spotted on Triangle Buttress Arete, VD, and Overhanging Buttress Direct, S 4a, among others. Daniel was finally roped in to a party for an ascent of Wednesday Climb, HVS 5b. Other than Yvonne who made a successful ascent on second, I am not sure exactly who else attempted Wednesday Climb but there seemed to be a great deal of hilarity among those in the vicinity.
With the light fading and the odd midge starting to appear it was time to head for the cars and the drive home. Most of the group managed to get at least five routes in with some hitting double figures which once again proved why Burbage North is a great midweek venue. Thanks all for coming out and to Jo for scheduling and organising!
Until next time,
Rory.
Rory Marsden
Higgar Tor
Wed 3rd May, 2023
Andy Stratford, Brian Tarnowski, Daniel Arrowsmith and Gareth Williams were the lucky four who braved the rough grit of Higgar Tor. It was a beautiful sunny evening with a biting cold wind making it feel very cold in the shade. Numerous routes were climbed, including Paddock (VDiff), Greymalkin (S), Hectate (VDiff) and Piece of Cake (HVDiff). And of course the notorious jamming route The File (VS 4c). Andy followed Daniel up the route, the latter enjoyed his lead so much that he decided to climb it a second time - solo and without any undue difficulty (but how about putting your helmet on next time??!!). Andy and Daniel stayed a bit later and were making good progress up The Rat's Tail (VS 5a) when I left.
Gareth WilliamsBurbage Edge
Wed 22nd Jun, 2022
Burbage South – Wednesday 22nd June 2022
Attendees
Daniel Arrowsmith, Rob Clark, Caroline Gay, Rory Marsden, Fergal McCullough, Brian Tarnowski, Holly Warder, Gareth Williams
On Peak Rock describes Burbage South’s specialities as “Many appealing, some appalling, problems. One of the Peak’s seed beds for technical virtuosity… Home for the committed (in all three senses) enthusiasts, but never overcrowded.”
And so on a beautiful June evening the committed enthusiasts of KMC gathered to hone their skills. As one of the few who had climbed previously at Burbage South Rob suggested we start at the Drainpipe and from there the following ascents were recorded:
Holly & Caroline
Rombald’s Staircase, Mod, led by Caroline
Chimney Route, VD, led by Holly
Ladder Gully, Diff, led by Caroline
Rob, Rory, Gareth & Brian
Drainpipe, HS 4b, led by Rob
Rob & Brian
Gable Route, VS 4c, led by Rob
The Gutter, HVS 5b, led by Rob
Gareth & Rory
The Staircase, S 4a, led by Rory
No Zag, E1 5b, led by Gareth
Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Rory
Tower Crack, HVS 5a, led by Gareth
Daniel & Fergal
Roof Route, VS 4c, led by Daniel
Byne’s Crack, VS 4b, led by Daniel
Unfortunately meet leader duties were poorly conducted and so the above list is only partially complete. Sorry. While there were no first ascents Caroline and Holly have officially defined the new climbing technique of “ooudgelling”.
After an evening of some excellent climbing we walked back across the moor left only to wonder what are the three senses of committed? Who are you calling crazy??
Committed
/kəˈmɪtɪd/
adjective
- pledged or bound to a certain course; dedicated
- in or denoting a long-term emotional relationship
Thanks to all who attended.
Rory MarsdenEvening Meet: New Mills Torrs
Wed 15th Sep, 2021
Prospective Members:
Holly Warder, Daniel Arrowsmith
Member:
Dave Wylie
It was a rather smaller, but no less enthusiastic, turnout for the antepenultimate outdoor evening meet of the year. Numbers were eroded partly due to at least one of the usual suspects being otherwise engaged on the Club's week-long trip to Skye.
Holly arrived first and, while waiting for others, only managed to avoid being recruited into a religious group by pointing out that the "Bible" that she was seen to be reading was actually a climbing guidebook. Same thing, really...
Dan turned up an hour or so later, having been so keen to get out that he initially went to next week's venue before realising he should be about 13 miles due south of there!
Dave got to the crag a few minutes after Dan, mumbling excuses about heavy traffic preventing him arriving sooner. Note to self: set off earlier in future.
With the team finally assembled, Dan tied in to the sharp end of the rope and did all the leading for the evening. His first route was "Cracked Corner" (S, 4a). Holly and Dave followed him up this, but the consensus was that the Rockfax grade (Hard Severe, 4b) was more appropriate - given the steepness of the route and the fact that all of Dan's gear flipped out as the rope was being taken in after he'd belayed at the top. An abseil descent was made from the in-situ maillon tied to the tree at the top.
Next, Dan led the classic HVS, 5a "Alcove Crack". This also seemed to be very steep and proved problematical for both seconds. Dave blamed his struggles on a lack of climbing for nearly two years, as his arms shrivelled away on the middle section of the route. Another abseil descent avoided any need to trespass into the garden of the property above the crag.
With the sunlight starting to fade, attention moved to the bolted (and floodlit!) sports routes on the pillars of the viaduct holding up Union Road. The guidebook suggests using a clip-stick to reach the first bolt. We didn't have one - but then Dan didn't need any such method of cheating! He led "The Price of Admission" (F6a+), up the arête of one pillar. Dave, then Holly, only managed to get about two thirds of the way up this when seconding. This meant that Dan had to do a final route, "The Thin End of the Hedge" (F6a), in order to thread the lower-off bolts and retrieve his gear.
A good, if short, evening's climbing. More fun to be had next week at Den Lane!
Dave WylieEvening Meet: Hobson Moor
Wed 8th Sep, 2021
Members:
Rory Marsden, Caro C, Steve Lopacki, Jim Symon, Dave Wylie
Prospective Members:
Alexandra Lancaster, Daniel Arrowsmith, Holly Warder, James Pike
A very warm evening at Hobson Moor saw a decent turnout from the KMC, with a good mix of existing and prospective members - including a new face in the form of Alex on her first time out with the club.
Most of the favourite routes were ticked, including: Pocket Wall, The Harp, Epitaph Corner, Foghorn Groove, Parker's Eliminate, Tighe's Arête, etc. Members who led routes then provided ropes from above and plenty of encouragement to those who were still getting used to outdoor climbing on proper rock, or whose ability to lead V-Diff seemed to have melted away in the heat...
People continued to climb until (and, indeed, after!) the light began to fade. The dreaded midges were also attempting to join the meet by this point, so most attendees headed off - some in the direction of a local watering hole for refreshments.
It was an excellent evening's climbing, enjoyed by everyone. Let's look forward to more of it next week, at New Mills Torrs.
Dave WylieEvening Meet: Alderman Rocks
Wed 1st Sep, 2021
Alderman Rocks 1st Sept 2021
Members: Dave Wylie, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, Rory Marsden
Prospective Members: Holly Warder, Ed Courtnell, Daniel Arrowsmith
The sun broke through in the afternoon and the forecast hinted at a pleasant if chillier evening. In fact, it was just on the right side of chilly and a stiff breeze kept the midges away at this, one of the best views you can get on our midweek crag circuit. Four members of the Ruscac club were also recorded as present on the first occasion this season when we have crossed venues on a midweek.
Ed, on his first KMC Meet and first time at Alderman led Dave up Rib and Face (HVD 4a), The Great Gatsby (VS 4c) and F route (VD 3c).
With a variety of finishes on offer it is difficult to really take full notes of what we all did – often climbing pitches on the second tier that bore no relation to the parent route lower down so what follows is a bit of an approximation!
Jim and Andy, Great Slab Arete (S 3c) with a finish up an off-width chimney, followed by The Great Slab (VS 4c) with Jim unusually taking the slab on P1 and Andy jamming the overhanging crack on P2. This was followed by Andy leading up Great Slab Right (HVS 5a) then an upper pitch (the Face), for these two they were joined by late arrival Rory.
Meanwhile, Daniel and Holly teamed up to dispatch Pygmy Wall (S 3c), Golden Wonder (E1 5b or Highball V1), the Face pitch and both pitches of The Great Slab.
We left as darkness was falling around 8pm and headed down to The Clarence for a beer and a natter – just like old times pre-Covid…. Maybe things are starting to get back to normal after all….
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Windgather Rocks
Wed 25th Aug, 2021
Windgather Rocks Wed 25th August 2021
Members: Roger Dyke, Andy Stratford, Andy Pierce, Dave Wylie, Rory Marsden, Chris Kastavunis, Caro Churchill, Steve Lopacki, Adam McCudden, Ged Farmer
Prospective Members: Brian Tarnowski, Harry Potts, Holly Warder, James Pike, Daniel Arrowsmith, Anna Laws, Catriona Kastavunis,
Seventeen members and prospective members out on a classic Windgather evening – sunshine and light winds, unfortunately not breezy enough for the critters…. Not midges though. FLYING ANTS! At the top of random buttresses, randomly all evening. Randomly. AARghhh!!
Roger initially claimed to just be there to take photos, but after 15 minutes he had his harness on and was on High Buttress Arete!
The rest of us climbed all the classic Windgather routes, a few notable ascents were Daniel Arrowsmith onsight ascent of Portfolio HVS 5b, followed very capably by Holly then Andy S. Rory also led it and again was followed in good style by Anna – who had a cracking evening, leading her first two routes under Rory’s watchful eye.
Brian also got a few leads in with Dave assisting, and Caro moved up a gear on her trad game with a solid lead of Mississippi crack.
Many routes were solo’d as well, with Andy Pierce offering belay wisdom at the top of the crag to all those less familiar with the process.
We were treated to a superb sunset, as well as the good company, let see a good turnout next week as the equally sunset-tastic Alderman Rocks, followed by a trip to the pub.
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Bamford Edge
Wed 4th Aug, 2021
An awful forecast for Bamford meant that no-one went this time.
Some members may try Bamford again next week 11th August instead of Helsby which is a poor crag.
Committee members.
Evening Meet: Robs Rocks
Wed 28th Jul, 2021
A poor forecast for the Chew Valley which included thunderstorms was proved right, so no-one went up to Rob's rocks this week. Lets hope for better weather for Bamford next week.
Committee members.
Evening Meet: Stanage left hand end
Wed 21st Jul, 2021
Wednesday 21st July 2021
Evening Meet: Stanage left hand end
Members: David Rainsbury, Rory Marsden
Prospective members: Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley, Liam Bell
As Caroline said she wouldn’t be able to arrive until after 4pm naturally she was the only person who had arrived at the Dennis Knoll car park by the time we had arranged. David and I arrived shortly after and once the local sheep had inspected our cars and climbing gear (Stanage Covid protocol) we set off for the crag. As neither Caroline or I had climbed at Stanage North before, we weren’t expecting anyone else, and it seemed rash to carry our gear too far on a hot afternoon, we decided to start at High Neb and possibly move further left later.
Having identified a suitably shady section of the crag I started with Mantleshelf climb (VD) followed in good style by David and Caroline. After some light hearted speculation on whether Old Friends (E4 6a) was an appropriate test for his new knee, David then led Tango Crack (VD), employing the layaway right start, for his first lead on grit in two years. Caroline and I followed for a fine start to the evening.
I had just made the first moves on High Neb Buttress Arete (S 4a) when there was a polite enquiry as to whether we were with KMC. This turned out to be new prospective member Liam. Liam had, quite fairly, assumed that we would actually be at the left hand end of Stanage and so parked at Moscar and trekked down from there, including a battle through the bracken to the finally arrive at High Neb. Sorry Liam!
Liam and David teamed up and Liam warmed up with a lead of Where did my Tan Go? (HVS 5a) which turned out to be a more thorough test for David and his new knee.
By now Jacob and Steve had arrived and so they joined me and Caroline to climb High Neb Buttress Arete. As a party of four we arrived back to the foot of the crag in time to have prime seats for Liam discovering that the guidebook description of The Dalesman (HVS 5a) was indeed accurate. “The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore”. David again seconded Liam and confirmed that The Dalesman gives a good pump whether you are leading or seconding.
I then led Lost Soul (S 4a) with Jacob and Caroline, while Liam moved on to lead one of the Stanage classics, High Neb Buttress (VS 4c). Steve was keen to have a crack at High Neb Buttress so he joined Liam on that and found that the key mantleshelf moves are well positioned and balanced.
The final climb of the evening went to Jacob. Having led his first Moderate routes at Burbage a couple of weeks previously, Jacob stepped things up with an excellent lead of Tango Crack (VD), employing the straight up foot jam start. This was seconded by Caroline who must have had some sense of déjà vu as she made a second ascent of the evening.
By now a bright pink moon had risen over Stanage indicating that having climbed until 9.30pm we had definitely made the most of the evening. We all headed home having bagged some excellent routes, caught some evening sunshine and with only one or two midge bites!
Rory Marsden
Evening Meet: Shining Clough
Wed 14th Jul, 2021
Shining Clough midweek – 14th July 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Rory Marsden
Prospective member: Caroline Gay
An excellent forecast for a moorland crag, and my first summer visit, having climbed Shining Clough icefall and two ice routes on the crag this winter with Gareth.
The walk in is notorious for the path being hard to both find and follow, and tonight was no exception – once the waterway of shining clough itself is crossed the path just does a disappearing act leading to 30 minutes of hardcore heather, bracken, and boulder bashing. Jim and I arrived at the crag, perspiring gently at about 4 ish and I was immediately struck by the striking crack and arete of 24m long three star VS classic, Phoenix Climb.
Jim decided to warm us up on the adjacent 3 star classic Severe of Via Principa. As ever Jim made short work of the 25 metre route Following up, I was engaged with some fabulous rough grit, unpolished despite many ascents (well, many for a moorland crag), following strong natural features. It had everything; exposure, cracks, jugs, gear wherever you wanted - an absolute joy and with doubt worth 4 stars - if fact, I'd say the best single pitch grit route at that grade I've ever climbed.
Rory and Caroline arrived just as we were arriving back at the base, Rory keen to lead it himself after listening to our enthusiasm. On reaching the top Rory’s grin was a broad as mine from his lead on Via Principa – Phoenix Climb VS was also amazing – with some brilliant jamming in the lower part and a wildly exposed arete near the top.
Somehow, I managed to get a nut stuck as part of my belay and after both Jim and I tried to free it to no avail I resorted to bashing my nut key with a small rock which put a tiny bend in it. Jim stretched out his healing hands to give my wonky nut key some loving attention, one gentle bend was all it would take to…. Snap it in half!! Thanks Jim!!
We wandered off to Pisa Buttress, it was Jim’s lead. Pisa Superdirect was the chosen line – yet another 3 star route, and again, it proved to be worth every one of those stars. Jim made the first section look easy as usual, but the overhanging crux did cause a little pause for thought…. I followed up and was super impressed with the lead – what a tough route!
Rory and Caroline went on a mission looking for V diff or severe on a ‘less trodden’ part of the crag and ended up new routing and gardening for the rest of the evening!!
The steep wall/slab on the right of Pisa buttress had a nasty looking off width called Stable Cracks described as ‘’a good straightforward introduction to the crag’’…. So, in other words a total sandbag! I grabbed my larger cam and set off on the mission.
‘’Sorry Jim’’.
I called, as the third large lump of vegetation hit his head as I gardened my way up, casually trashing my clothes and skin. One of the off width sections required udging of the cam upwards as I squirmed uncomfortably behind it, twisting nefarious parts of my body into the crack, in fact I reckon the first ascensionist was swearing about how they could ‘’stable a bloody horse in here’’ when they came up with the name! I made it to the top – sweaty, filthy, and bleeding mildly. Next time I’ll pay more attention to the route name.
Four mega routes and we decided we would call it a day, after all, there was the matter of the walkout!
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: The Roaches
Wed 7th Jul, 2021
Poor weather this week for The Roaches, but maybe we will get lucky for the traditional weekend meet - this year on Sunday 15th August.
Committee members
Evening Meet: Lawrencefield
Wed 23rd Jun, 2021
Lawrencefield Midweek
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gareth Williams, Andy Pierce
Prospective Members: Rory Marsden, Steve Torley, Jacob Torley
Jim led Tyrone VS 4c, Nova HS 4b, Nailsbane HVD and the top pitch of Great Harry VS 4c after Rory had wilted his forearms on the strenuous first pitch!
Andy led Gingerbread VS 4b, Meringue HVS 5a, Branching Off (Three tree climb variation) HS 4c, and followed Jim on Nova and Tyrone. Gingerbread is an interesting one – relatively easy climbing but just two bits of gear which might just stop you hitting the ground. Meringue, it’s harder next door neighbour is actually much better protected with a decent selection of small cams, although the start is very polished as Steve Torley will attest! Jacob made short work of Branching off, speeding up after Andy, however the technical start proved too much for Steve, who handed over the rope to Gareth after a series of valiant attempts.
Rory followed Nova, Meringue and led Snail Crack and P1 of Great Harry, with arms seriously wilted after the major corner crack, Jim was called on to complete P2!
Gareth led Great Harry and followed Andy P on Delectable Direct E1 5c
Andy P solo’d a progressively more serious set of cakes - Gingerbread, Meringue and Éclair!
A great evening, excellent company….. and very few midges as a bonus – which is not always the case at Lawrencefield.
Andy StratfordEvening Meet: Staden Quarry
Wed 16th Jun, 2021
Dovestones Edge (alternative midweek meet to Staden Quarry) 16th June 2021
Deviant Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, John Cox
Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley
A few weeks back Dovestones was on the list but apart from the weather being marginal, both Jim and I were away. Neither of us fancied Staden, hence the plan was advertised to have a deviant group from the ‘’official’’ KMC weds…. for an alternative evening at Dovestones Edge in the Chew valley. It really is in such a glorious spot for a sunny summer evening, and the weather played out 100% tonight. Enough sun to climb in a T-shirt but enough wind to blow the midges off, even at the base of the crag. The 45-minute walk in seemed perfectly reasonable for the rewards reaped in terms of the stunning views.
Jim opted for a start on Swan Crack (S4a) noted in the guidebook as (ahem!) ‘’an Old Timers favourite’’…… a cracking route. Andy followed up on the adjacent Noddys Wall at VS 4b, a cracking route with just enough gear to make it seem reasonable, Jim followed and then John Cox who had just arrived.
‘’is everything here rounded?’’ asked John?
Jim then opted for the absolute classic Left Embrasure VS 4b, a fabulously steep VS, but with great positive jams and jugs most of the way. John followed up in fine style with Andy last.
‘’Ok, so that wasn’t rounded but it was bloody steep’’…
You can’t please some people!
Jim and John then partnered for the rest of the evening climbing Central Tower (V Diff), Matchstick Crack (Severe) and Answer Crack (V Diff), all which Jim led in usual fine style. Whilst John was working his biceps on Embrasure, Rory and Caroline climbed Central Tower then went on to Coopers Crack HS 4b which Rory thoroughly enjoyed. Matchstick Crack (S) is often green and slimy at the back of the bay near Embrasure, and hadn’t looked appealing on previous visits, so Andy led it for the first time with Jacob in hot pursuit. Sadly, Steve couldn’t join in the climbing this evening after twisting his ankle on the walk-in.
After this it was time for a mass ascent of the three-star moorland classic of Nasal Buttress HS 4b led by Andy (with a little hesitation at the crux!) and followed by Jacob, Caroline, and Rory who then wanted one final route before it went dark and we had seen Jim in a fabulous position on the wall of Answer Cack (V diff) from across the gully, so we dashed across, and Rory led it giving his answer without deviation, hesitation, or repetition.
The first tiniest hint of midge arrived as we packed up at 9.15pm. It had been a wonderful evening of moorland grit with great company, thanks to everyone for coming.
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Millstone Edge
Wed 9th Jun, 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gowry Sisupalan
Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley
Millstone always feels like a tough and imposing venue and this warm but windy evening was no exception. Andy opened the evening with pitch 1 of Covent Garden (VS) – both Jim and Andy declining to climb P2 – the exposed and poorly protected arete. As they arrived back at the crag base Gowry and Caroline had just arrived and opted for a trip to the garden centre on The Scoop, a starred Diff which is in need of a little traffic! Jim blasted up The Mall (VS 4c) followed by Andy.
As Rory had arrived with Rhubarb (yes, the dog!) he opted for photography rather than climbing so there are some fine shots of most of the team having a crack at Embankment Route 2 (VS 4c) led with a relatively minimal amount of grunting from Jim. Caroline gamely followed, laybacking almost all the way, followed by Andy, then father and son team Jacob and Steve Torley.
Gowry and Caroline then headed round to Hells Bells buttress bay for a couple of easier routes, whilst Andy followed the polish on ‘The Great Slab (HS 4b), then the excellent upper section. Jacob followed in fine style, then Jim. Steve had an interesting time balancing on the slab, finding the polish in all the right places.
A lovely evening, midge free!
Andy Stratford
Evening Meet: Horseshoe Quarry
Wed 2nd Jun, 2021
Horsehoe Quarry / Burbage North – Midweek 2nd June 2021
Horsehoe-ers - Members: Adam McCudden, Jed Farmer
Burbage - Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Nils Elgar
Burbage - Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Steve Torley, Jacob Torley, Ian Bennett.
A breakaway contingent decided on the trad grit of Burbage North, advertising the alternative on the KMC scribble page.
Horsehoe still attracted a couple of members who both live much closer and an excellent evening's sport climbing was reported.
It’s a good while since the meet that this is being written up so memories have faded as to exactly who did what that gorgeous sunny evening – Andy’s routes included Black Slab (Vs 4b), Sentinel Chimney (HVD 4a), Lieback (HS 4b), Black Slab variation (Diff, sol’d by a few of us), Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b) and the intimidating off-width of Hollyash Crack (VS 4b).
Other routes climbed were Still Orange (S 4a) and Green Crack (VD).
The most notable event of the evening was Rory Marsden’s appearance with a rack of cams…. (refer to the meet report for the Stanage Newcomers meet, 1st May 2021).
Another fine evening of climbing, in great company at a fabulous venue.
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Blackstone Edge
Wed 19th May, 2021
As far as we know no-one went on this midweek meet, not because the weather was terrible but more because it's a bit of a crap venue that should probably never have been on the list! Oh well, we know for next year!
Committee members
Evening meet: Castle Naze
Wed 12th May, 2021
Castle Naze weds 12th May 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Andy Pierce, Jack Buczko, Duncan Zerafa
Prospective Members: Ian Bennett, Rory Marsden
The forecast was a little marginal but Castle Naze is a super quick drying crag – we were there from 3pm – 8.30pm and in the end we only had a few spots of rain and a short spell of cool wind but other than that it was warm, dry, sunny and relatively calm.
We climbed most of the classic routes between us that evening with Jim having a cracking night leading Keep Arete VS 4b, The Crack VS 4b, Studio HS 4b, The Nithin S 4a, Scoop Face HVS 5a and Nozag VS 4c. Check out the KMC members facebook page for a great photo of Jim on scoop face before he got some gear in…..
Andy P managed about ten routes of which he solo’d eight – The Arete, Fifth horseman, thin cracks, The Nose, Niche arete, Pilgrims Progress, Little Pillar and Keep arete.
Everyone else led two or three routes on a relaxed and fun evenings climbing.
Andy S
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Frogsmouth Quarry
Wed 5th May, 2021
Troy (replacement venue for Frogsmouth) midweek 5th May 2021
Members: Andy Stratford and Jim Symon
It had rained and rained for a couple of days, and as the BMC advise, climbing on sandstone after lost of rain is a no-no.... this is because the sandstone is porous and would erode much more quickly.... then there is the matter of Frogsmouth as a venue choice..... broken glass, grafitti, the sweet smell of charred bits from left over BBQ's and fires. Heaven!
Anyway, Anglezarke was proposed as an alternative, but due to one our fave KMC weds venues 'missing' from the list - something (apparently) to do with access..... Jim and I thought it wise to check with local KMC member and Troy guru Liam Brady, and with Paul Evans (KMC sec, and BMC access team) and actually, access is still fine it is just that one needs to be a little more careful with parking on the lane, or park further up the road and walk round the edge of the moor, which adds 12 minutes to the approach.
The weather was glorious and Troy takes the sunset beautifully - we climbed a great clutch of routes - Jim leading Stacked Deck (HS 4b), Cracked Wall (VS 4c) and Rapunzle (VS 5a) with Andy leading Right Siamese Twin (S 4a), Troy Groove (VS 4b) and Little Sneak (VS 4c).
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Pule hill
Wed 28th Apr, 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon
Guest: Ian Bennett (Ex-member from many years ago!)
An excellent evening climbing a dozen or so of the superb short routes at this glorious venue with sunshine on the crag and not a midge in sight.
Andy Stratford
Evening meet: Running Hill Pits
Wed 21st Apr, 2021
No reports of attendance at 'the pits'.... bit of a tough venue to start the season, so maybe make it an end of season crag next year.
Committee members
Evening meet: Hobson Moor
Wed 7th Apr, 2021
Committee members are unsure who exactly was at this one..... but possibly members Nils Elgar, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford and Duncan Zerafa.
Committee members
Evening meet: Pule Hill
Wed 5th Aug, 2020
Pule hill
Members: Jared Kitchen and Gareth Williams
Having remained dry most of the day, a mighty cloud arrived the second we left the house, and by the time we arrive at arrived at Pule Hill the crag was dripping. However, the rain had stopped, and with the a brisk wind we hoped that the rock would dry quickly; we walked up the hill and arrived to see dry patches emerging! Feeling keen, we walked around to The Sentinal area where Jared racked up for a quick send of Treverse Not (VS 4c). At the top we rigged a top rope on the infamous Overlapping Wall (E1 6b); an impossible stopper of a problem that kept us puzzled for the next hour or so.
We then headed around to the Quarry in search of more action, but another great cloud gathered it's strength and soaked the crag for a second time. We sheltererd in the cave under Delilah (E1 5b) for a bit chatting away, but after 30 mins conceded defeat and returned to the cars. We arrived home just in time to log into the KMC's virtual meet for a chat.
It was great to get out and catch up with friends, even in the rain! It was a good evening.
Jared KitchenZoom meet
Wed 20th May, 2020
Welcome to KMC's new online meets. Our lovely community of climbers, mountaineers and hillwalkers are coming together each week - sometimes for a chat and sometimes for an informal talk from a club member. This week, we have a real treat:
Crossing the Gobi Desert with Gareth Williams
7pm
Zoom
If you're a member and want to join, check your email. If you're a prospective and would like to join us, you will be made very welcome - first fill in our quick and easy registration form: https://www.karabiner.org/contacts/joining.php then drop us a quick email: enquiries@karabiner.org, and we will send you details to log into Zoom.
Emily Pitts
Anniversary Garden Party
Thu 25th Jul, 2019
Report by: Michelle Harvie and Mark Garrod
Attendees: Rob Allen, Dave Wylie, Jim Symon, Philippa Symon, Michelle Harvie, Kate Harvey, Mark Garrod, Joe Dugdale, Christine Beeston, Maggie Baldock, Dave Shotton, Alan Barber, Janis Barber, Alan (L) Jones, Jeremy Engineer, Cathy Devine, Roisin Maddison, Colin Maddison, Mary Stuart, Oi Ding Koy, Iain McCallum, Linda Crossley, Mark Ashley, Lorna Marsland, David, Jo Stratford, Andy Stratford (27)
Thanks to Michelle’s boss Tony who lent us a large gazebo at short notice once we had seen the forecast – it kept 4 sharp showers from dampening the evening’s socialising. Thanks also to everyone who came along and made the summer garden party a success, and for bringing enough food along to feed everyone easily, and amazingly, with a nicely varied spread.
Our collection raised £101.05 for St Ann’s Hospice.
We now have to decide when the next one is – maybe in 2 years?
Mark & Michelle
Mark GarrodTrevor Rocks (Llangollen)
Wed 2nd Aug, 2017
Improbable mid-week limestone sport-climbing near Llangollen
Attendees: Duncan Zerafa & John Smallwood.
After a relatively quick and easy drive from Manchester, two climbers arrived for the further afield Welsh mid-week meet. A mixed forecast had perhaps put people off. It had rained very heavily just before arriving and the likely-hood of climbing anything seemed remote. Local climbers already there were abandoning their climbing, but the KMC duo felt it would be worth seeing if things improved. The crumbled walls of Castle Dinas Bran dominated the dramatic landscape looking along the rolling hills of the valley and made up for lost climbing time.
The trad climbing routes in the quarry at the eastern side were dripping wet and ruled out, however those sport routes which were on the western end were drying out quickly in the evening sun and breeze. So without the Clywd Limestone guide book several sport routes were started and some abandoned as the unknown grades became apparent. After checking the UKClimbing website the routes climbed might have been K9 5a*, Hotdog 4a* and Chocolate Fudd 6a+. But really we didn't know for sure, it didn't matter though and we enjoyed limestone sport climbing.
Next week Cow's Mouth Quarry
Duncan ZerafaLawrencefield Quarry
Wed 7th Jun, 2017
Sheltered quarried grit near Hathersage
Members present: Duncan Zerafa
Guests present: Ben Kolb, Andy Pierce, John Smallwood.
A warm, breezy and dry evening held promise for the climbing tonight. Lawrencefield Quarry looks quite similar to Denham Quarry with a small pool, sheltered by birch trees and long towering routes shooting up the walls.
John had arrived the earliest and partnered up with new guest Ben under Gingerbread Slab. The first route he led was the long continuous crack of Snail Crack VD*, seconded by Ben. This was followed by Ben leading Tyrone VS 4c* a route with an abseil descent, described later as "sandy, weird and awkward" by John.
Meanwhile under the Great Harry wall area Duncan was climbing with guest Andy, who had climbed the previous week with the KMC at the Roaches. First was a lead of the 3 star route Three Tree Climb HS 4b. It was noticed the three trees though have long since departed. Andy made a fine lead of Excalibur VS 4c** at the Pool Wall area. Your author whilst belaying espied massive wood ants benignly scurrying around his feet and over the ropes. John was now leading the long and meandering Pulpit Groove VD 4a**. Which combined crack climbing, traversing and an exposed finish. Also being his favourite route of the evening.
The cloudy canopy above our heads was becoming bleak and rain drops idly menaced. But there was still time for one more route. Ben flew up the delicate crack of Meringue HVS 5a* making very short work of it. Duncan lead the fine, fingery and bold Gingerbread VS 4b*. No protection until about three quarters of the way up at around 8m, but a really great climb.
With the rain starting to now take effect on the rock, quick abseils down aided us as we adjourned to The Little John pub in Hathersage to vote for next weeks crag. Presented to the voters were the three options of Wilton and Anglezarke Quarries along with the natural crag of Dovestones Edge. Recent KMC trips to the aforementioned quarries produced a landslide victory for Dovestones Edge. A longish walk in but worth it on a early summer evening.
Dunnwood Park Boulder, Shaw
Wed 26th Mar, 2014
Dave, Emily, Mark, Trish, Al
The small group just managed get an hours worth of bouldering in before the drizzle set in.
Bridgewater Bouldering
Wed 21st Dec, 2011
Attended by Nick and Gareth, but only as ships that pass in the night. Some bouldering in conditions damp underfoot and underhand. Followed by dining and shopping?
Bridgewater Bouldering
Wed 15th Dec, 2010
Bouldees: Gareth Williams, Dave Shotton, James Williams, Nick Adamson, Al Metelko, Dave Dillon.
2 venues, 2 traverses, 2 new routes 'Elephant Crack' and 'Gateaux Men'.
Bouldering & Bingeing Comp
Wed 15th Jan, 2003
Indoor Meet.
So the post-Festive blues have set in. Christmas and Hogmanay have been & gone and what have you got to show for two weeks of fun, frolick and debauchery? Endless bottles of smelly stuff from various relatives & acquaintances you'd long thought had passed on to the land of low gravity; the rumbling remnants of indigestion that even the strongest liver salts wont touch; and worst of all a credit card bill that suggests a wonderful time was had by all, but of which your mind has nothing but fleeting and disturbed memories of indescribable liqueurs downed from some stranger's stiletto whilst standing on a bar table and gurgling your heart out to a Karaoked version of Slade's Merry Christmas. But worse by far is the sense of disbelief when getting out of the shower you glimpse an horrendous vision of your head and Craig Marsden's body. How, in just two weeks, could turkey and stuffing have converted to 6 stone of blubber!
Well don't fear - the cure is here! Guarenteed to restore mind and body to some semblance of balance, burn off the surplus lard, and give you hope, and maybe a little excited anticipation, for what the coming year holds.
So what is this cure-all, this elixir of life, this panacea ????..?
A Bouldering Comp' - wot a grand idea I hear you all shout with enthusiasm!
What could be better than putting your aging limbs and sagging stomachs through their paces at a friendly, not-too-competitive (take note Rick) climbing outing encouraged by calls of support from your bestest chums - and all followed by a curry and a pint of Robinson's finest at a nearby hostelry.
After the enthusiasm and support for last years bouldering competition - regardless of age (old Rob Allen - 73 - got his crumbling bones up some problems) and size (Craig & Rick came along - damage to wall has now been repaired!), I am organizing another for this year. So if you're interesting in demonstrating your grace, poise & elegance, or even your thuggery, skittery foot work and fear of heights, then make a note of Wednesday 15th January.
The script will be much the same as last year - arrive anytime after 6.00pm, 'compete' (in its loosest sense) till 9ish - then out for a curry at a local curryhouse/pub for good food, banter and prize giving.
The venue is Glossop Wall, where problems across the full range of KMC ability (3b - 4a) will be set to test your metal and embarrass you in front of friends and family - but don't let that put you off, you can rest safe in the knowledge that there's always someone less competent than yourself - Rick will be there!
To recap:
Event: Bouldering Comp.
Date: Wednesday 15th January
Time: 6.00pm onwards
(No Reports)
Back to Current !!!!
If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-
Participation Statement
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
More Evening Meets:
During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.
Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.
If you have any questions about coming along to a meet, or if you want to try and arrange car sharing, etc., then just send us an e-mail. For the latest information check the Scribble pages.
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Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:
Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (18)Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (16)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (11)
Beeston Tor (1)
Big Depot, South Manchester (2)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Brownstones (3)
Cadshaw Rocks (7)
Castle Naze (25)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (16)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (13)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (18)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (14)
Helsby (14)
Hen Cloud (2)
Heptonstall (7)
Hobson Moor Quarry (45)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (5)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (7)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (12)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (17)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravensdale (1)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Lower Tier (1)
Roaches Upper Tier (8)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (10)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (20)
Shining Clough Rocks (6)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage North (2)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (4)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (7)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (34)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (19)
Wilton 3 (11)
Wimberry Rocks (9)
Windgather (23)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (21)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Wormstones (1)
Yellowslacks (3)
Climbing Walls Used:
Manchester Climbing Centre (118)Marple Rope Race (3)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (181)
The Depot: Manchester (73)
Warrington North Face (3)
Other Evening Meets (203)
Lancs online guidebook
