Next Evening Meet:
Wed 22nd Sep, 2021
All welcome. Evening meets start around 6pm. Please bring midge repellant/net and suntan cream. Manchester sunset is approximately 19:12, twilight to around 19:46. Please keep an eye on Scribble for wet weather options.
Wed 15th Sep, 2021
Wed 8th Sep, 2021
Wed 1st Sep, 2021
Alderman Rocks 1st Sept 2021
Members: Dave Wylie, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, Rory Marsden
Prospective Members: Holly Warder, Ed Courtnell, Daniel Arrowsmith
The sun broke through in the afternoon and the forecast hinted at a pleasant if chillier evening. In fact, it was just on the right side of chilly and a stiff breeze kept the midges away at this, one of the best views you can get on our midweek crag circuit. Four members of the Ruscac club were also recorded as present on the first occasion this season when we have crossed venues on a midweek.
Ed, on his first KMC Meet and first time at Alderman led Dave up Rib and Face (HVD 4a), The Great Gatsby (VS 4c) and F route (VD 3c).
With a variety of finishes on offer it is difficult to really take full notes of what we all did – often climbing pitches on the second tier that bore no relation to the parent route lower down so what follows is a bit of an approximation!
Jim and Andy, Great Slab Arete (S 3c) with a finish up an off-width chimney, followed by The Great Slab (VS 4c) with Jim unusually taking the slab on P1 and Andy jamming the overhanging crack on P2. This was followed by Andy leading up Great Slab Right (HVS 5a) then an upper pitch (the Face), for these two they were joined by late arrival Rory.
Meanwhile, Daniel and Holly teamed up to dispatch Pygmy Wall (S 3c), Golden Wonder (E1 5b or Highball V1), the Face pitch and both pitches of The Great Slab.
We left as darkness was falling around 8pm and headed down to The Clarence for a beer and a natter – just like old times pre-Covid…. Maybe things are starting to get back to normal after all….
Wed 25th Aug, 2021
Windgather Rocks Wed 25th August 2021
Members: Roger Dyke, Andy Stratford, Andy Pierce, Dave Wylie, Rory Marsden, Chris Kastavunis, Caro Churchill, Steve Lopacki, Adam McCudden, Ged Farmer
Prospective Members: Brian Tarnowski, Harry Potts, Holly Warder, James Pike, Daniel Arrowsmith, Anna Laws, Catriona Kastavunis,
Seventeen members and prospective members out on a classic Windgather evening – sunshine and light winds, unfortunately not breezy enough for the critters…. Not midges though. FLYING ANTS! At the top of random buttresses, randomly all evening. Randomly. AARghhh!!
Roger initially claimed to just be there to take photos, but after 15 minutes he had his harness on and was on High Buttress Arete!
The rest of us climbed all the classic Windgather routes, a few notable ascents were Daniel Arrowsmith onsight ascent of Portfolio HVS 5b, followed very capably by Holly then Andy S. Rory also led it and again was followed in good style by Anna – who had a cracking evening, leading her first two routes under Rory’s watchful eye.
Brian also got a few leads in with Dave assisting, and Caro moved up a gear on her trad game with a solid lead of Mississippi crack.
Many routes were solo’d as well, with Andy Pierce offering belay wisdom at the top of the crag to all those less familiar with the process.
We were treated to a superb sunset, as well as the good company, let see a good turnout next week as the equally sunset-tastic Alderman Rocks, followed by a trip to the pub.
Wed 18th Aug, 2021
Wed 11th Aug, 2021
Wed 4th Aug, 2021
An awful forecast for Bamford meant that no-one went this time.
Some members may try Bamford again next week 11th August instead of Helsby which is a poor crag.
Wed 28th Jul, 2021
A poor forecast for the Chew Valley which included thunderstorms was proved right, so no-one went up to Rob's rocks this week. Lets hope for better weather for Bamford next week.
Wed 21st Jul, 2021
Wednesday 21st July 2021
Evening Meet: Stanage left hand end
Members: David Rainsbury, Rory Marsden
Prospective members: Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley, Liam Bell
As Caroline said she wouldn’t be able to arrive until after 4pm naturally she was the only person who had arrived at the Dennis Knoll car park by the time we had arranged. David and I arrived shortly after and once the local sheep had inspected our cars and climbing gear (Stanage Covid protocol) we set off for the crag. As neither Caroline or I had climbed at Stanage North before, we weren’t expecting anyone else, and it seemed rash to carry our gear too far on a hot afternoon, we decided to start at High Neb and possibly move further left later.
Having identified a suitably shady section of the crag I started with Mantleshelf climb (VD) followed in good style by David and Caroline. After some light hearted speculation on whether Old Friends (E4 6a) was an appropriate test for his new knee, David then led Tango Crack (VD), employing the layaway right start, for his first lead on grit in two years. Caroline and I followed for a fine start to the evening.
I had just made the first moves on High Neb Buttress Arete (S 4a) when there was a polite enquiry as to whether we were with KMC. This turned out to be new prospective member Liam. Liam had, quite fairly, assumed that we would actually be at the left hand end of Stanage and so parked at Moscar and trekked down from there, including a battle through the bracken to the finally arrive at High Neb. Sorry Liam!
Liam and David teamed up and Liam warmed up with a lead of Where did my Tan Go? (HVS 5a) which turned out to be a more thorough test for David and his new knee.
By now Jacob and Steve had arrived and so they joined me and Caroline to climb High Neb Buttress Arete. As a party of four we arrived back to the foot of the crag in time to have prime seats for Liam discovering that the guidebook description of The Dalesman (HVS 5a) was indeed accurate. “The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore”. David again seconded Liam and confirmed that The Dalesman gives a good pump whether you are leading or seconding.
I then led Lost Soul (S 4a) with Jacob and Caroline, while Liam moved on to lead one of the Stanage classics, High Neb Buttress (VS 4c). Steve was keen to have a crack at High Neb Buttress so he joined Liam on that and found that the key mantleshelf moves are well positioned and balanced.
The final climb of the evening went to Jacob. Having led his first Moderate routes at Burbage a couple of weeks previously, Jacob stepped things up with an excellent lead of Tango Crack (VD), employing the straight up foot jam start. This was seconded by Caroline who must have had some sense of déjà vu as she made a second ascent of the evening.
By now a bright pink moon had risen over Stanage indicating that having climbed until 9.30pm we had definitely made the most of the evening. We all headed home having bagged some excellent routes, caught some evening sunshine and with only one or two midge bites!Rory Marsden
Wed 14th Jul, 2021
Shining Clough midweek – 14th July 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Rory Marsden
Prospective member: Caroline Gay
An excellent forecast for a moorland crag, and my first summer visit, having climbed Shining Clough icefall and two ice routes on the crag this winter with Gareth.
The walk in is notorious for the path being hard to both find and follow, and tonight was no exception – once the waterway of shining clough itself is crossed the path just does a disappearing act leading to 30 minutes of hardcore heather, bracken, and boulder bashing. Jim and I arrived at the crag, perspiring gently at about 4 ish and I was immediately struck by the striking crack and arete of 24m long three star VS classic, Phoenix Climb.
Jim decided to warm us up on the adjacent 3 star classic Severe of Via Principa. As ever Jim made short work of the 25 metre route Following up, I was engaged with some fabulous rough grit, unpolished despite many ascents (well, many for a moorland crag), following strong natural features. It had everything; exposure, cracks, jugs, gear wherever you wanted - an absolute joy and with doubt worth 4 stars - if fact, I'd say the best single pitch grit route at that grade I've ever climbed.
Rory and Caroline arrived just as we were arriving back at the base, Rory keen to lead it himself after listening to our enthusiasm. On reaching the top Rory’s grin was a broad as mine from his lead on Via Principa – Phoenix Climb VS was also amazing – with some brilliant jamming in the lower part and a wildly exposed arete near the top.
Somehow, I managed to get a nut stuck as part of my belay and after both Jim and I tried to free it to no avail I resorted to bashing my nut key with a small rock which put a tiny bend in it. Jim stretched out his healing hands to give my wonky nut key some loving attention, one gentle bend was all it would take to…. Snap it in half!! Thanks Jim!!
We wandered off to Pisa Buttress, it was Jim’s lead. Pisa Superdirect was the chosen line – yet another 3 star route, and again, it proved to be worth every one of those stars. Jim made the first section look easy as usual, but the overhanging crux did cause a little pause for thought…. I followed up and was super impressed with the lead – what a tough route!
Rory and Caroline went on a mission looking for V diff or severe on a ‘less trodden’ part of the crag and ended up new routing and gardening for the rest of the evening!!
The steep wall/slab on the right of Pisa buttress had a nasty looking off width called Stable Cracks described as ‘’a good straightforward introduction to the crag’’…. So, in other words a total sandbag! I grabbed my larger cam and set off on the mission.
I called, as the third large lump of vegetation hit his head as I gardened my way up, casually trashing my clothes and skin. One of the off width sections required udging of the cam upwards as I squirmed uncomfortably behind it, twisting nefarious parts of my body into the crack, in fact I reckon the first ascensionist was swearing about how they could ‘’stable a bloody horse in here’’ when they came up with the name! I made it to the top – sweaty, filthy, and bleeding mildly. Next time I’ll pay more attention to the route name.
Four mega routes and we decided we would call it a day, after all, there was the matter of the walkout!Andy Stratford
Wed 7th Jul, 2021
Poor weather this week for The Roaches, but maybe we will get lucky for the traditional weekend meet - this year on Sunday 15th August.
Wed 30th Jun, 2021
Wed 23rd Jun, 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gareth Williams, Andy Pierce
Prospective Members: Rory Marsden, Steve Torley, Jacob Torley
Jim led Tyrone VS 4c, Nova HS 4b, Nailsbane HVD and the top pitch of Great Harry VS 4c after Rory had wilted his forearms on the strenuous first pitch!
Andy led Gingerbread VS 4b, Meringue HVS 5a, Branching Off (Three tree climb variation) HS 4c, and followed Jim on Nova and Tyrone. Gingerbread is an interesting one – relatively easy climbing but just two bits of gear which might just stop you hitting the ground. Meringue, it’s harder next door neighbour is actually much better protected with a decent selection of small cams, although the start is very polished as Steve Torley will attest! Jacob made short work of Branching off, speeding up after Andy, however the technical start proved too much for Steve, who handed over the rope to Gareth after a series of valiant attempts.
Rory followed Nova, Meringue and led Snail Crack and P1 of Great Harry, with arms seriously wilted after the major corner crack, Jim was called on to complete P2!
Gareth led Great Harry and followed Andy P on Delectable Direct E1 5c
Andy P solo’d a progressively more serious set of cakes - Gingerbread, Meringue and Éclair!
A great evening, excellent company….. and very few midges as a bonus – which is not always the case at Lawrencefield.Andy Stratford
Wed 16th Jun, 2021
Dovestones Edge (alternative midweek meet to Staden Quarry) 16th June 2021
Deviant Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, John Cox
Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley
A few weeks back Dovestones was on the list but apart from the weather being marginal, both Jim and I were away. Neither of us fancied Staden, hence the plan was advertised to have a deviant group from the ‘’official’’ KMC weds…. for an alternative evening at Dovestones Edge in the Chew valley. It really is in such a glorious spot for a sunny summer evening, and the weather played out 100% tonight. Enough sun to climb in a T-shirt but enough wind to blow the midges off, even at the base of the crag. The 45-minute walk in seemed perfectly reasonable for the rewards reaped in terms of the stunning views.
Jim opted for a start on Swan Crack (S4a) noted in the guidebook as (ahem!) ‘’an Old Timers favourite’’…… a cracking route. Andy followed up on the adjacent Noddys Wall at VS 4b, a cracking route with just enough gear to make it seem reasonable, Jim followed and then John Cox who had just arrived.
‘’is everything here rounded?’’ asked John?
Jim then opted for the absolute classic Left Embrasure VS 4b, a fabulously steep VS, but with great positive jams and jugs most of the way. John followed up in fine style with Andy last.
‘’Ok, so that wasn’t rounded but it was bloody steep’’…
You can’t please some people!
Jim and John then partnered for the rest of the evening climbing Central Tower (V Diff), Matchstick Crack (Severe) and Answer Crack (V Diff), all which Jim led in usual fine style. Whilst John was working his biceps on Embrasure, Rory and Caroline climbed Central Tower then went on to Coopers Crack HS 4b which Rory thoroughly enjoyed. Matchstick Crack (S) is often green and slimy at the back of the bay near Embrasure, and hadn’t looked appealing on previous visits, so Andy led it for the first time with Jacob in hot pursuit. Sadly, Steve couldn’t join in the climbing this evening after twisting his ankle on the walk-in.
After this it was time for a mass ascent of the three-star moorland classic of Nasal Buttress HS 4b led by Andy (with a little hesitation at the crux!) and followed by Jacob, Caroline, and Rory who then wanted one final route before it went dark and we had seen Jim in a fabulous position on the wall of Answer Cack (V diff) from across the gully, so we dashed across, and Rory led it giving his answer without deviation, hesitation, or repetition.
The first tiniest hint of midge arrived as we packed up at 9.15pm. It had been a wonderful evening of moorland grit with great company, thanks to everyone for coming.
Wed 9th Jun, 2021
Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gowry Sisupalan
Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley
Millstone always feels like a tough and imposing venue and this warm but windy evening was no exception. Andy opened the evening with pitch 1 of Covent Garden (VS) – both Jim and Andy declining to climb P2 – the exposed and poorly protected arete. As they arrived back at the crag base Gowry and Caroline had just arrived and opted for a trip to the garden centre on The Scoop, a starred Diff which is in need of a little traffic! Jim blasted up The Mall (VS 4c) followed by Andy.
As Rory had arrived with Rhubarb (yes, the dog!) he opted for photography rather than climbing so there are some fine shots of most of the team having a crack at Embankment Route 2 (VS 4c) led with a relatively minimal amount of grunting from Jim. Caroline gamely followed, laybacking almost all the way, followed by Andy, then father and son team Jacob and Steve Torley.
Gowry and Caroline then headed round to Hells Bells buttress bay for a couple of easier routes, whilst Andy followed the polish on ‘The Great Slab (HS 4b), then the excellent upper section. Jacob followed in fine style, then Jim. Steve had an interesting time balancing on the slab, finding the polish in all the right places.
A lovely evening, midge free!
If you are considering coming along to a club meet, please read the following:-
"I accept that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a risk of personal injury or death. I am aware of and shall accept these risks and wish to participate in these activities voluntarily and shall be responsible for my own actions and involvement."
More Evening Meet:
During the spring and summer months evening meets are held outdoors at local crags, usually on Wednesdays, weather permitting. Keep an eye on the scribbles for the latest information. Indoor climbing wall meets start again in the autumn.
Some lucky people may be able to get out climbing nice and early, but this will vary depending on work hours and the traveling distance. Generally you should find KMC climbers at the crag by 6pm and some might still be there after its gone dark.
Outdoor Climbing Venues Used:Alderman Rocks, Chew Valley (14)
Aldery Cliff (3)
Anglezarke Quarry (14)
Ashworth Moor Quarry (1)
Bamford Edge (6)
Beeston Tor (1)
Blackstone Edge (5)
Bridestones (West Yorkshire) (1)
Broadbottom Quarry (2)
Cadshaw Rocks (6)
Castle Naze (18)
Coire an t'Sneachda (1)
Cow's Mouth Quarry, Littleborough (13)
Deeply Vale (3)
Den Lane, Uppermill (12)
Denham Quarry (8)
Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley (13)
Dovestones Lower Left Quarry (1)
Egerton Quarry (4)
Froggatt Edge (2)
Harpur Hill Quarry (10)
Hen Cloud (2)
Hobson Moor Quarry (41)
Hollywood Park Boulder (2)
Horseshoe Quarry (4)
John Wayne Memorial Crag (1)
Kinder Downfall (2)
Lester Mill Quarry (2)
Longford Park Boulder (3)
Millstone Edge (4)
Misty Wall, Kinder Northern Edge (1)
Moving Buttress, Cheedale (1)
New Mills Torrs (10)
Pex Hill (5)
Pot Hole Quarry (2)
Pots and Pans Quarries (2)
Pule Hill, Marsden (14)
Ramshaw Rocks (8)
Ravenstones - Chew Valley (1)
Reddyshore Scout (2)
Roaches Upper Tier (4)
Robs Rocks - Chew Valley (5)
Rough Knarr (1)
Running Hill Pits, Saddleworth (16)
Shining Clough Rocks (4)
Staden Quarry (6)
Stanage Plantation (1)
Stanage Popular End (1)
Standing Stones - Chew Valley (6)
Stoney Middleton (1)
Summit Quarry (2)
Swinton Boulders (1)
Tegg's Nose (2)
The Pump House (1)
Thors Cave (1)
Tintwistle Knarr (2)
Tissington Spires in Dovedale (1)
Tonacliffe Quarry (2)
Troy Quarry (27)
Victoria Park Boulder, Stretford (2)
Warton in Silverdale (3)
Wharncliffe Crags (1)
Wilton 1 (17)
Wilton 3 (9)
Wimberry Rocks (7)
Winnats Pass (1)
Witches Quarry (16)
Woodhouse Scar (2)
Climbing Walls Used:Manchester Climbing Centre (118)
Marple Rope Race (3)
Rock Over Climbing (6)
Stockport Awesome Walls (122)
The Depot: Manchester (12)
Warrington North Face (3)
Other Evening Meets (81)
Lancs online guidebook